Friday, July 6, 2012

Yes, I Know: It's Been Awhile....

  Yep--it's been some time since I've written in this blog.   I could use all kinds of reasons/excuses/rationalizations: I was too lazy, or it was too hot outside, or whatever.   Enough's enough.   Let's try and describe my trip to New York City, for the opening of Churchill: The Power of Words, at The Morgan Library & Museum  

The Museum's entrance is the photo above left.

This journey all started back in November 2010, during my three-week visit to the UK and Europe.   I spent a wonderful day in Cambridge, at the Churchill Archives Centre at Churchill College, where I met Mr Allen Packwood, the Centre's Director.   I'd emailed him about my initial research into Winston Churchill's American maternal ancestors, the Jeromes--after discovering that Churchill's maternal grandfather, Leonard Jerome, was born in the village of Pompey Hill, New York: a short drive from where I live outside Syracuse.   Allen was in the planning stages for this New York City exhibition about Churchill and his 'way with words', and he asked if I would like to be involved in some way.   And I said, 'Certainly--in whatever way I can help'--or words to that effect.

In the event, I did some research in the Syracuse area, and found a family tree tracing back to the first Jerome to settle in the Pompey Hill area: one Timothy Jerome, who came from the Isle of Wight.   I traced down through the male line, all the way to Leonard Jerome and his middle daughter Jennie, who married Lord Randolph Churchill, the second son of the 7th Duke of Marlborough(That's Jennie's portrait on the left.)  Their firstborn son was Winston Churchill.   I email the information to Allen, and his team created a really great graphic design, for people to see.    I subsequently received an invitation to attend the reception to open the exhibition on 7 June 2012.

I decided to stay in New York for two days, which was all I could afford.   I found a hotel on Park Avenue online, and bought rail tickets from Syracuse to Penn Station in New York (I did NOT want to drive in Manhattan).    The trip took about 5 1/2 hours, and made several stops along the way.   The best part of the journey was the view of the Hudson River; I made sure to get a seat on the right side of the train!   The Hudson was magnificent: I was able to view sites like the US Military Academy at West Point (on the west side of the river), and the wide expanse of the river as we headed south.    There was a lot of wildlife to be found--including a Bald Eagle, perched in a riverside tree.

I arrived at Penn Station just after 1 pm, on Wednesday, 6 June.   The station is situated underneath Madison Square Garden--aka The World's Most Famous Arena, and home to the NHL's  New York Rangers and the NBA's New York Knicks.    I joined the heaving throng out of the station, and into the taxi queue--which was quite orderly for New York.   The driver deftly dodged his way through the midtown Manhattan traffic, and I arrived at my hotel: the 70 Park Avenue.   My room faced the Empire State Building, which was pretty darned cool!

That first day was more of a 'recon' time than anything: I wanted to get my bearings as to where things were.   I hadn't visited New York in many years, and I'd brought along a few Google maps to places I wanted to visit.   And I did a LOT of walking that first day, north along both Madison and Fifth Avenues.   Those 'sidewalks of New York' are VERY VERY long, and always full of people; I felt like a minnow trying to swim upstream!!    And I especially wanted to find my way to The Morgan Library & Museum, and figure out the shortest way to go from the hotel.

My one lingering visit that day was to 'Chartwell Booksellers', at 55 East 52nd Street--and not far from Fifth Avenue (photo right).    Their slogan is The World's Only Winston Churchill Bookshop--and it's as good as its word.   Here, one can find almost any book about Winston Churchill: his political thought, his family--even his 'sartorial style'.   One can also find First Editions of Churchill's own books plus several hardcover editions of the Official Churchill biography by Randolph Churchill (WSC's son) and Sir Martin Gilbert.    One of these hardcover Official biographies was for sale for....$8000!!!   After I gulped at the price, I thought: 'Sure--I've got some loose change in my pocket!"   

Alongside the Churchill books, there were volumes about Britain in the Second World War; general British history; general Second World War history, and books on Architecture and Gardening.    I found a number of books by Sir Martin that were not Churchill-related (I have several of them in my home library).   And it was tempting to buy something at Chartwell Booksellers.   But I managed to resist..although I did take some photos of the shop's window displays; mostly having to do with Churchill Style: a new book about Churchill's clothes and his sartorial style!


I took some time off my feet nearby, before braving the crowds again along Fifth Avenue.   I passed many upscale shops as I headed south, back towards the hotel: Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord and Taylor, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Tiffany & Co.: well, you get the idea.   One could do a whole day's worth of 'window shopping', gazing at high fashion for women or expensive jewelry and leather goods. 

I made a brief stop at St Patrick's Cathedral, which was covered in exterior scaffolding for a major restoration project.   Inside, it was a bit of a madhouse: tourists snapping photos and lighting candles at various shrines flanking the nave, along with a high school graduation ceremony in full swing at the foot of the High Altar.   I don't know how anyone managed to pray in the cathedral, with all the chaos going on; a few people were making a valiant effort to do just that.   And I nearly got run over by a mother pushing her toddler in a stroller!

This day, at least, St Patrick's was more of a tourist attraction, than a 'house of prayer'.   YIKES....!    And I admit it: I acted like a tourist myself, by snapping photos of some of the stained-glass windows.... (photo right). 

 Later on, I couldn't stop thinking about the 'houses of Mammon' that lined Fifth Avenue, in contrast to St Patrick's.

Upon leaving St Patrick's, I noticed a really imposing building on the opposite side of the street: the New York Public Library, with its imposing lion sculptures flanking its entrance (photo left).   The story goes that the sculptures were originally named "Leo Astor' and "Leo Lenox" after the Library's founders John Jacob Astor and James Lenox.   But in the 1930s, during the Great Depression, New York City Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia nicknamed them 'Patience' (on the left as the viewer looks) and 'Fortitude' (on the right); LaGuardia believed those were two attributes that would give New Yorkers the strength and courage to get through those dark days.

There is a little plaza of sorts out front with tables, where one can sit, eat and drink, and just watch the people go by.   And there were a lot of people hanging about, on a very lovely late-spring day.   I took several photos of the Library, and the lion sculptures.

By this time, it was after 3 pm, and I thought I would go look for The Morgan, and see how to get inside for the next evening's reception.   I left Fifth Avenue at 40th Street, turned onto Madison Avenue and there it was.   The Morgan is one of New York's small treasures: part of the Museum comprises the former home of financier J. Pierpont Morgan: one of the richest men in the world.   It is also a world-class art museum, with changing exhibits of paintings, drawings and sculpture.   One of their current exhibitions was one on Renaissance drawing.

As I entered the Museum's modern lobby, I spotted a familiar face: my friend Allen Packwood from Cambridge, who was in a small group of people.   I thought he glanced my way, before disappearing into an exhibit hall on the right with his small group.   While standing around looking lost, I was approached by a museum staffer, who asked what I was doing; I replied it was my first visit to The Morgan, and that I would be attending the next evening's Churchill exhibition reception.   The staffer then allowed me to wander around the 'free' area off the lobby--normally, one would pay $15 to visit the main exhibit areas. 

And that's what I did: I wandered about, and looked at some medieval and Renaissance-era sculptures, religious implements, reliquaries and such, that were part of The Morgan's permanent collection.   There was also a plaster sculpture in a display case of the original 1902 entrance to J. Pierpont Morgan's home, which is on 37th Street.

I was sweating profusely from all the outdoors walking, and hoped I didn't look like a total wet rag.   Soon, Allen emerged from the nearby exhibit hall and came over to me, and greeted me warmly.   We had a few moments to chat, and he told me some writers from The New York Times were in the Churchill exhibition, to write an advanced review.   Allen told me he left them alone because the Times staffers wished to work in peace.   I thought, that makes sense.

During our conversation, Allen told me there would be just over three hundred people in attendance at the reception.   And there would be several 'special guests' invited: London Mayor Boris Johnson, Churchill's granddaughters Edwina and Celia Sandys (daughters of Churchill's eldest child Diana)--and Caroline Kennedy and her husband Edwin Schlossberg.   At that point, Allen wasn't certain Ms. Kennedy would be attending...but at the same time, my mouth literally flew open.   And I thought, what in the WORLD was 'little old me' doing at this reception with so many 'real' V.I.P.'s?!?

Poor Allen: he'd been dashing about New York City ever since his arrival the previous Sunday, making sure everything (and everyone) was in place for this event.   Not just the reception: the whole exhibition, which runs through 23 September 2012.   I don't know how he managed to keep his head together, with all the details and things to take care of.   If it were me, I'd probably be tearing my hair out.....!    So I decided to let him go back to see what the Times people were doing; I bid him 'Good Evening', and said I'd see him at the reception.   I left The Morgan, and headed back to my hotel

By now, it was close to 4:30 or so, and I was VERY hungry.   While planning my trip, I discovered there were several stores of my favorite UK restaurant chain--Pret A Manger--in close proximity to the hotel.   This restaurant makes freshly-prepared food all day: sandwiches, salads, soups, and desserts.  It's all local food and/or organic; and I found 'Pret' by accident in London in November 2010.   I bought an awesome chicken Caesar salad with raspberry vinaigrette dressing; an organic fruit drink; some crunchy red grapes and a chocolate and granola bar, and took it all back to my room.

 As I crashed for the night--with somewhat sore feet--I savored my supper, and reflected on where I'd been, and what I'd seen so far.    And I also tried to get some decent sleep--all the while trying not to get nervous about the upcoming reception at The Morgan.....

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