Better Late Than Never: Day Three of My Hyde Park Adventure

I do apologize for the 'late' entry here: procrastination got the better of me for the last month, and I haven't concluded recounting my 'excellent' adventure in Hyde Park, New York, in November 2011.   But I'm doing that right now...

Day Three, 10 November 2011, dawned bright with unseasonable warmth.   I slept OK overnight, except for a case of 'twitchy legs'.   I hate those....!   I waited to finish packing up until I had breakfast at the Roosevelt Inn: more bagels and cream cheese, with a banana and orange juice.   After I completed packing, and loaded my things into the car, I went to the office to pay my bill.   As I approached the office door, I noticed a Welsh Corgi on the other side, barking at me.   This was "Minna", the canine 'desk clerk': the Inn's manager, a lovely lady from Finland, encouraged me to come in.

Minna, as it turned out, loves the Inn's guests.   She let me pet her, and got very excited when I made a fuss over her (photo left).   Minna's mistress has run the Roosevelt Inn for over thirty years: she told me her German-born husband had recently passed away: he had been born in East Prussia--the part of Germany that was given to Poland after Germany's defeat in the Second World War.   I mentioned that my mother's family was also from Germany, but in the western part of the country.

Minna, for her part, was so excited by all the attention, she wouldn't look at me, while I tried to take her photo.   The one at the left is one of the best.

Before I left, I assured Minna's mistress that I would be back in Hyde Park again, and staying at the Roosevelt Inn: I enjoyed the hospitality, and said I would recommend the Inn to others.   After giving Minna one last scratch on the head, I was on my way.

The night before, I had decided to take the more 'scenic route' home.   I decided against going back on the New York State Thruway because it is an incredibly boring drive at high-speed.   I decided to take US Route 9 north to near Albany, and then go US Route 20 west.   It would take a longer time, yes--but there's a change in road speeds, along with changes of scenery.

Before leaving Hyde Park, I returned to the Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site, and retrace the path that Allen Packwood and I had trod the day before--but at a more leisurely pace.   The ground was damp from overnight dew--but there were few people about, except staff working on the restoration project at the FDR Presidential Library building.

Behind the Library, I noticed three large sculpture busts standing all alone: two were of President Roosevelt--and one was of British Prime Minister Winston Churchill (photo right).   Normally, they would be standing within the Library building.   But during the restoration work, they were moved outside, a few feet from the rear entrance.   Needless to say, I was surprised to see these: I wish Allen and I had found them the day before!

Doing some research after the trip, I discovered this bust was created by the same sculptor who did a similar Churchill bust at Churchill College in Cambridge, England.   I saw that particular sculpture in November 2010, when I first met Allen at his office at the Churchill Archives Centre.   This Hyde Park bust shows both Churchill's strength and determination.

Retracing my steps to the nearby Rose Garden, I took a couple more photos of the Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt graves--and the grave of Roosevelt's Scottie, 'Fala'.   On a nearby National Park Service marker, I found an interesting and sad photo of Eleanor Roosevelt accompanying Churchill on a visit to Franklin Roosevelt's grave in March 1946 (photo left).   Churchill looks utterly sad, as he gazes at the grave of his wartime colleague.   He must have been devastated, when he first received the news of Roosevelt's untimely death in April 1945.

Near the Rose Garden is the main house, Springwood, where Franklin Roosevelt was born.   During his presidency, he used this house as a summer home, and a retreat from wartime stress.   Just before the Second World War broke out, the Roosevelts invited Britain's King George VI and Queen Elizabeth, to a picnic at nearby Top Cottage.  It was here that the King and Queen tried American hot dogs for the first time!

Springwood itself is also undergoing some restoration work.   Most of it appears to be happening at the rear of the house.   The view from the sweeping front drive is beautiful: it must have been a hive of activity when the Roosevelts and their children were in residence.   And poor Eleanor had to deal with her husband's overprotective and domineering mother, Sara Delano Roosevelt.

The views of the Hudson River Valley, behind Springwood, are spectacular.   And even though the leaves were mostly off the trees, it was still a beautiful thing to behold.

I made my way slowly back to the Wallace Educational Center, next door to the Library.   I wanted to see if the gift shop was open--but, alas, I was too early.   It didn't open until 10 am, and it was just after 9 am when I arrived.   I did, however, do some wandering about outside, and got some photos of a really nice dual sculpture of Eleanor and Franklin Roosevelt, seated on a terrace outside the Center (photo right).  

There's even a spot for visitors to sit next to the President, to have their photos taken.   On the Roosevelt Inn's Web site, little Minna had her chance to sit next to Franklin Roosevelt!

Going back inside the Center, I found the sculpture of "Fala" that sits next to the Visitor Information desk.   Allen had pointed it out to me the day before, but I was unable to get a photo of it then.   So I took the opportunity to get one this time around (photo left).  

If there was a poll asking people who the most famous White House pet was (or is), I am sure many people would pick "Fala".   His master spoke of him often enough!

Right after I took this photo, I left the park.   But before I left Hyde Park itself, I made a couple more photo stops.   One was at The Eveready Diner, where Allen and I had lunch the day before.   I'll never forget their very filling dinners from Tuesday and Wednesday evening!    A must-stop for any future Hyde Park visit.

My final Hyde Park stop was at the St James Episcopal Church (photo left), where the Roosevelts worshiped during their stays at Springwood.   It was consecrated in October 1811, as the only Protestant Episcopal congregation north of Poughkeepsie, and south of Hudson, New York.   The first congregational meeting was held in March 1812.   Many of the prominent families in the Hyde Park area were members of St James' congregation--including the Livingston and Lewis families.   Many members of these families were buried in the cemetery behind the church--including one Robert Livingston, who was a drafter (but not a signer) of the Declaration of Independence.

My main reason for stopping at the St James Church cemetery was to see if Sara Delano Roosevelt was buried there.   She died in Hyde Park in September 1941, and her funeral was held at St James.   Sadly, I could not find her grave, if it was there.   I did see some rather impressive mausoleums of the 'local gentry', however--including that of the above-mentioned Robert Livingston.

I also saw a very poignant memorial marker (photo left), for Paul E. Tegtmaier, a former member of the Hyde Park Fire Department.   He had moved to New York City and joined the FDNY--only to perish in the World Trade Center's North Tower, on 11 September 2001.   No trace of this young man was ever found.

The cemetery itself was very quiet, except for lawn-mowing being done by a groundskeeper.   The leaves beneath my feet crunched, as I walked along the graveyard's paths.   Then: lo and behold, I saw something moving between two of the mausoleums: it was a large deer: it looked like a buck, but I couldn't be sure.   We looked at each other for a long time, and I stepped forward, one step at a time, to try and get a good photo.   The deer snorted a little, but made no initial attempt to run away.   Eventually, it scampered off to my left, amongst the gravestones, and towards busy US Route 9.

I hope the creature was able to cross the road safely.   I didn't see it again once I left the church grounds.

Soon, it was time to get back on the road.   I had a wonderful drive through some beautiful and historic Hudson Valley towns, like Rhinebeck.   I love seeing the farmland, and all the wonderful old buildings.  And it was hard to leave such a wonderful area like the Hudson Valley.   Especially when I reached Albany, the state capital of New York.   Driving through that city's not for the faint of heart, or the 'directionally-challenged'!

After i crossed the Hudson River, I found myself at the foot of one of Albany's more monstrous building sites: the Empire State Plaza, where many state Government offices are located.   I was looking for the way to US Route 20, and had to drive through some congested streets to get there.   I followed a set of signs to Route 20--only to have them disappear from sight, on a narrow side street lined with restored old town-houses.   Good thing I decided not to get off this particular street, because eventually I found my way out of Albany proper--and right onto US Route 20.

The sun stayed out all during my drive north on US Route 9.   Until I left the Albany city limits, that is.  Then, the skies darkened, and the rain came pouring down--all while I'm literally driving up-hill-and-down-dale on Route 20.   I must confess it is a very scenic roadway, full of historic towns and villages, and incredible scenery.   But it was probably not a good choice, for driving in the rain, and the darkening skies!

Eventually, the rain ended as I reached the village of Manlius, just outside Syracuse.   It was dry as I arrived home around 4 pm....but no sooner did I get the car unloaded and my baggage brought inside, but the heavens opened with another heavy downpour!

All in all: my Hyde Park visit was a great success.   It was a pleasure to see Allen again, nearly a year since our visit in Cambridge.    And he was happy with what I had found about Leonard Jerome, for use in next year's Churchill exhibition at the Morgan Library in New York City.   That alone made it all worthwhile.

Day Two of My Excellent Hyde Park Adventure

Wednesday, 9 November 2011, was another unseasonably warm and sunny day.   The middle day of my short stay in Hyde Park, New York, would be the busiest one yet.   I would be spending most of the day with my British friend Mr. Allen Packwood, the Director of the Churchill Archives Centre at Churchill College in Cambridge, England.   He was on a six-day visit to New York, discussing the details of the upcoming Winston Churchill-themed exhibition at The Morgan Library--and meeting with schoolteachers to go over ways to include learning about Winston Churchill, in their various educational institutions.   Allen was taking the train from New York, to spend a few hours in Hyde Park going over my part in the exhibition, and meeting staff members at the Franklin D. Roosevelt Library, to see how they, too, could assist in his work.

I slept fairly well overnight, with the windows open: an odd thing to do in mid-November.   But the room was initially a bit warm for my liking.   As the night wore on, I felt much more comfortable.   When morning came, I was up and going around 6:30 am.   After a shower, I changed into some 'dressed-up' clothes: a black vest, white shirt, and khaki trousers--and pinned my red "Flanders Fields" poppy pin on the vest's lapel, so Allen would recognize me at the train station in nearby Poughkeepsie.  This is usually about the dressiest I get.

I stopped at the inn's coffee shop, for their complimentary breakfast.   I helped myself to a toasted bagel with cream cheese, a banana, and orange juice.   As the first one in the coffee shop, I felt a little bit alone as I sat to eat, and read a copy of The New York Times.   But I was soon joined by another guest: a gentleman from Florida named Mike, who was on his way to Cooperstown, New York, to visit the National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum.   He told me he was a fan of the St Louis Cardinals, who had just won the 2011 World Series in late October.   It was also his first visit to the Hudson River Valley, and he said he enjoyed it very much.   I wished Mike a safe trip to Cooperstown.

After breakfast, I returned to my room and went on my computer for a few minutes.   I also decided to try and call Allen one more time, to tell him how to recognize me at the train station.   Happily, we finally made telephone contact, and I said he could recognize me by the black vest with a red poppy pin.   He said he'd be on the lookout, so I wished him a safe journey, and rang off.   I then washed my face again and put on fresh makeup, and left for the train station.   It was around 9:30 am.

As I got closer to Poughkeepsie, the traffic became busier--especially after I passed Marist College.   It grew even heavier--and faster!--as I approached what I thought was the correct exit to the station.   When it turned out to be the wrong exit, I panicked ever so slightly, thinking I'd have to go all the way into the city of Poughkeepsie itself, and then backtrack to Route 9.   After making a U-turn at one light, I got back onto Route 9 going back to Hyde Park; I turned around in a store parking lot across from Marist College, went back to Poughkeepsie, and eventually made the correct exit for the train station.   Thank heaven I'd left Hyde Park with about an hour to spare; if I'd left any later, I would certainly have panicked!

Then came the next challenge: finding a spot to park the car at the station!    Now this was an adventure....   First, I tried an outside car park near the station.   But it was full, and one could park there by 'permit only'.   Next, I entered the parking garage adjacent to the station itself.   But I could not find a way to get to the garage's second or third levels, so I exited the garage, and went back to the adjoining street, thinking there would be 'public parking' in another car park.   When I found out the car park was for a local elder-care home, I started to get a bit frustrated.   But eventually, I did find on-the-street parking near the station: four hours of 'free' parking!   I pulled into the spot and parked, and walked to the station.

Inside the waiting area, it was fairly quiet.   Only a few staffers and passengers were about.   I can only imagine what this station looks like at morning and evening rush-hours.   Allen's train from New York was scheduled to arrive around 11:30 am.   It was about 10 am when I got into the station, so I had time to write, and wait.   I looked out the waiting area's north window, at the pedestrian-only Poughkeepsie Bridge, sitting high above the Hudson River (photo left).   It was once a railroad trestle, that spanned the east and west sides of the river.   It's a bit too high for my taste, especially over the water....

During the wait, I chatted with a couple of ladies from Texas, who were taking a train to New York.  We talked about things like horses, and the terrible drought that ravaged parts of Texas this past summer.

Right around 11:30, Allen's train pulled into the station.   I waited by the staircase leading from the platform--and then I saw him.   He smiled as he recognized me, and came over and greeted me warmly.  It had been nearly a year since I'd met Allen, in his office at the Churchill Archives in Cambridge.   On my visit last November, he'd given me a tour of the Archives, and treated me to lunch in the Fellows' Dining Hall at the College.

We chatted about his train trip, and his week of activity in New York, while walking back to my car.   Allen had to remember that the passenger side on US cars is on the right, instead of the other-way-round in the UK.   Soon, we were back on US Route 9, and on our way to lunch at The Eveready Diner.   We talked about many subjects on the drive, including travel.   I'd discovered that Allen had visited Israel in the early 1990s.   My own multiple visits to Israel occurred in the 1970s and 1980s.

Not only is Allen the Churchill Archives Director.   He is also the Executive Director of the Churchill Centre, UK branch.   I honestly don't know how he juggles all these responsibilities, and still manage to keep his head about things!

At the Eveready Diner, we ordered lunch: we both ordered salads (he, Santa Fe salad; me, Chicken Caesar Salad).   I warned Allen the portions at this diner are huge--and they sure were!   He was eating light, as he told me he had a dinner to attend later that evening back in New York.

While we ate, Allen showed me the floor plans for the Churchill exhibition at The Morgan Library.   It's called Churchill: The Power of Words, and will have displays of various artifacts related to Churchill: one of his paintings, copies of various speeches, some personal effects, etc..

There will also be some interactive touch-screen spots in the exhibition--and this is where my efforts will come in: in the touch-screen kiosks will be seen Churchill's American family tree, focusing on the paternal line of his mother, Jennie Jerome.   Her father, Leonard Jerome (photo left) was born in Pompey Hill, New York, in 1817: an area in Upstate New York not far from where I live, outside Syracuse.   I've found some photos of Leonard Jerome and his wife, Clara Hall Jerome, and Leonard's parents Samuel and Aurora Murray Jerome.   Allen wants to digitize these photos, and use them in conjunction with the family tree--which I just happened to bring with me, courtesy of the Palmyra, New York, Historical Society.   (Clara Hall Jerome was born in Palmyra.)

When I showed the written family tree to Allen, he said it was 'perfect'.   I gave him this copy, and told him to use it as long as he needed to, and then send it back to me.   Using my computer, I also showed him several photos and portraits of Leonard Jerome and his family I'd found myself, or had been emailed from different sources.   I've sent most of those to Allen.   He was pleased with what I'd found.

Allen also had a couple of things for me: a small book on the history of Churchill College (written for its 50th anniversary last year)--and a check, to cover my research efforts.   It was in an envelope, so I didn't know then how much it was for....but later that afternoon, he told me it was for four hundred dollars.  I felt it was almost too generous, but Allen wanted to be sure I was compensated for my part in the exhibition.   He also told me the exhibition's Opening Night was by invitation only--and he said to me: "And you'll be receiving an invitation!"   I stopped and thought, "WHAT--ME??   I'll be amongst V.I.P.'s like Sir Martin Gilbert, and members of Churchill's family?!?"   It still boggles my mind, even a week later....!!   I hope I won't feel like a tiny minnow, in a very large sea.....

Allen had another surprise for me at our lunch: he encouraged me to think about writing an article about the life of Leonard Jerome for the Churchill Centre's publication Finest Hour!   It comes out four times a year.   He said he'd be happy to proof my written draft--and would also include our mutual friend Sir Martin Gilbert in that task.   He'd also help with any photos and such from the Churchill Archives.

Needless to say, I was flabbergasted at such an idea.   But then, I thought about it: why not use all this information I've found for good, and educate people?   Eventually, I want to create a Web site about Leonard's life--but an article, in such a respected publication, would be a great start.   Allen also says he was sure there'd be a lot of Churchill-related Web sites who'd want to link to a Leonard Jerome Web site--including the Archives, and the Churchill Centre.

We soon finished our lunch, and I drove Allen to the nearby Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site.   While here, he would have a meeting with staffers from the FDR Presidential Library, and go over with them the plans for the Churchill exhibition, and get their input as to how the FDR Library could be part of it--with Churchill-related documents from the Library.   The meeting was scheduled for around 2:30 pm--but we had about an hour or so to wait beforehand.   During that time, Allen and I watched a short film about Roosevelt's presidency, in the Henry Wallace Educational Center.   Afterwards, we took a short walk around the grounds near Roosevelt's home, Springwood (photo right).

During our walk, we visited the large Rose Garden, where the graves of both Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt--and the Roosevelts' famous Scottish Terrier, 'Fala', are located (photo left).   The roses were all cut-back for the autumn, but the garden itself is a wonderful place to stand and contemplate.

Franklin Roosevelt is the only Democratic president I admire: he led the US through the Great Depression of the 1930s, and most of the Second World War.   He pretty much created the Federal Government the way we in the US know it today, with programs like Social Security (begun in 1935), and agencies like the Securities and Exchange Commission (founded 1934)--to name just two!

We didn't visit the inside of Springwood, which is a lovely 'manor' house of solid stone.   We walked around to the side that faces the Hudson River, and took photos of each other.   Normally, I don't like having my picture taken for any reason.   But it was such a beautiful day, so I consented.   I took this photo of Allen (photo right).   I hope he won't mind my including it on my blog.

On the way back to the Wallace Center, Allen shared a little about his academic background, and how he became an Archivist.   He's been a staff member at Churchill College for over ten years.   He also said he was happy to get out of New York City, if only for a few hours.   I told him it was a great day to be out of the Big Apple: a lovely autumn day in the Mid-Hudson Valley!

Soon, it was time for Allen's meeting with the Roosevelt Library staffers.   While we waited for everyone to gather, I said to Allen that Churchill and I shared one thing in common: we both battled depression--which Churchill called his 'black dog'.   Allen asked me: "I trust that he (the dog) is now chained up?"  And I said, "For the most part".   I sure hope the 'black dog' is.

Soon after, two young men walked over and introduced themselves.   I only got first names, and they were Cliff and Todd.   They both shook hands with me firmly.   I trailed the three men (another man, David, would be joining us shortly), thinking I would wait for them outside their meeting room.   But they kindly let me sit in on the conversation, which was a lovely surprise.   When the four of us were seated, David finally came in, and Allen introduced me to him.

When they were all seated, the discussion began in earnest.   Allen showed the three men the exhibition floor plan he'd shown me at lunch, and went over what roles the Roosevelt Library might play.   The four of them discussed educational opportunities for teachers and schoolchildren through the exhibition, and plans for activities for the Opening Night V.I.P.s--including renting a coach for a day-trip to Hyde Park, and a panel discussion on Churchill.   There was also talk of Web-streaming the panel discussion, or a presentation via C-Span2, the public service channel.   The ideas were flying thick and fast.

As for myself, I said little, if anything.   It was fun to watch and listen to the discussion.   I scribbled a few reminders to myself in my notepad about research deadlines.   The Library team was very impressed with what Allen's team has done so far--and there's still about six months to go, before the exhibition opens.   It'll run from 7 June to 23 September, at The Morgan Library.   It was really nice of these four gentlemen to let me sit in on their discussion.   I could have just as easily sat outside the meeting room, and waited for them to finish.

All too soon, the meeting was over, and it was time to take Allen back to Poughkeepsie.   I said farewell to Cliff, Todd and David, and led Allen back to the car park, and my car.   During the drive, I thanked Allen again for taking the time to come to Hyde Park.   And, unfortunately, I couldn't stop a lot of nervous chatter on my part.   I still kick myself, even a week later, for being so idiotic.

We didn't park on the street, when we arrived at the station.   Allen just asked me to drop him off at the main door, near the taxi stands.   Which is just what I did: I parked the car, and Allen stepped out, and he warmly said good-bye.  I wished him a safe trip home to England, and waved as he entered the station.   He waved back with a smile, as I drove off, and back to Hyde Park.   Traffic was crazy, as I neared Marist College again.

Back at the Roosevelt Inn, I changed clothes and went to supper at The Eveready Diner.   I ordered the most awesome Chicken Pot Pie: the 'pie' was actually a puff-pastry, covered with chicken, gravy and vegetables, with a side-scoop of mashed potatoes.   I was stuffed again, like usual!   But it was so good.


It was dark, by the time I left the diner.   I went back to my room at the inn, and watched TV and went on the computer.   I made sure to write a thank-you email to Allen, and tell him how much I enjoyed our visit--and to thank him for letting me play a small role in this Churchill exhibition.   It was one of the best days I've had in a very long time: probably since my UK trip last November.   And now, it was almost over: both the day itself, and my Hyde Park visit.

Off I Go On My Hyde Park Adventure

It's been a couple of days since I came back home: a time given to processing and remembering my wonderful three-day visit to Hyde Park, New York.   The main reason I came there was to meet up with a friend I met last November, during my two-week trip to England: Allen Packwood, the Director of the Winston Churchill Archives at Churchill College, Cambridge University.   We would be going over the photos and other material I've collected, for inclusion in an upcoming exhibition on Churchill at The Morgan Library in New York City.   The exhibition will be from 7 June to 23 September, 2012.

I was really looking forward to this visit.   Allen was spending several days in New York, going over the logistics of the exhibition with the Morgan Library staff, and meeting with educators who were interested in including Churchill in their school curricula.   We'd wanted to meet and go over what I'd found in my research, but airfare and hotel accommodations in New York City would be expensive for me.

So an idea occurred to both of us: why don't we meet somewhere half-way instead?   I could drive down from Syracuse for a day or so, and Allen could take the train up from the City.   After the emails flew back and forth for most of October, I made hotel reservations for myself at a nice place in Hyde Park.   Turns out the hotel I chose--the Roosevelt Inn @ Hyde Park--was where I stayed in September 2004, when my brother-in-law graduated from the Culinary Institute of America--which is in Hyde Park.

The drive itself was fairly uneventful.   I left Syracuse at 6 am, and drove east on Route 31, to the Thruway exit in the village of Canastota.   I don't normally take the New York State Thruway.   It's rather boring, and I don't like dodging 18-wheel tractor-trailers at 70 mph or more.   But if one has to be somewhere quickly, it's the only way to go via automobile.   Traffic was pretty steady overall.   But it got pretty heavy the closer I got to Albany: the capital of New York State.   I arrived as morning rush-hour was at its height, with cars backing up on the off-ramp.   Needless to say, I got out of their way as fast as I could....   I did stop for some breakfast at a Service Area outside the city of Amsterdam.   It was also a way to stretch my legs and back, after sitting for awhile.   Long car drives are literally a pain.


I got off the Thruway just north of the village of Rhinebeck, in the Hudson River Valley.   After crossing the Hudson River via the Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge, I turned south on US Route 9, towards Hyde Park.   The Hudson River Valley is one of the most beautiful areas in New York State.   And even in early November, there were still a lot of colorful leaves on the trees: mostly russet and the occasional gold.

I was surprised to see so many trees with leaves on them: a nasty early winter nor'easter struck the Hudson Valley, and much of New England and the Mid-Atlantic Region over Halloween weekend.   The heavy, wet snow brought down hundreds of trees still in leaf onto power lines, plunging these areas into blackout.   And still: nearly two weeks' later, parts of Connecticut and New Jersey still didn't have power.

I thought the village of Rhinebeck to be one of the prettiest places around.   It's an old, historic village, founded in 1686 by Dutch settlers.    Rhinebeck really didn't begin to grow, however, until 1703, when the New York colonial Assembly approved funds for the building of the King's Highway--later known as the Albany Post Road, which incorporates much of today's US Route 9.   One of the best-known of Rhinebeck's buildings is the oldest inn in the United States: the Beekman Arms, which dates from around 1700 (photo right).   And there are a lot of lovely small homes along US Route 9; I bet many of them date back to before the American Revolution.   It's a photo-taker's paradise!

In Rhinebeck, I noticed my fuel gauge was approaching 1/4-full, so I started looking for a gas station in earnest.   But I noticed that gas prices were around 20 cents higher than back home in Syracuse: on average, around $3.75/gallon for Regular.   I didn't find a gas station until I arrived in Hyde Park around 11 am: a Shell station selling regular for $3.75.   I swallowed hard, and filled up the tank.

It was too early to check into the Roosevelt Inn (check-in time was 2 pm), so I thought I would do a 'trial run' to the train station in nearby Poughkeepsie: a larger city just south of Hyde Park.   I had promised Allen that I would pick him up at the rail station on Wednesday, 9 November, and take him back when it was time for him to leave.   I figured I'd better get some idea of where to turn off Route 9, closest to the station; so I braved the rather heavy traffic heading into Poughkeepsie, and found the right exit to turn off.   The train station came into view, and I felt satisfied I knew where I was going.   But I would definitely give it enough time to get there on Wednesday, just in case I got lost....

When I returned to Hyde Park, I passed by the Culinary Institute of America: one of the premier culinary colleges in the United States (photo left).   It was founded in 1946, and has campuses in San Antonio, TX, St Helena, CA, and in Singapore.   The school was originally located in New Haven, CT, as a vocational school for returning Second World War veterans.   In 1972, it moved to Hyde Park, and into a former Jesuit novitiate campus.   My brother-in-law won a scholarship to the Institute in 2004, and took a one-year-long course.   He graduated in September 2004; the commencement ceremony was held in the former Jesuit chapel.   There's a former novitiate abbot who is still buried in that chapel!

The students refer to the Culinary Institute of America as 'the other CIA"--in a mocking contrast to the Central Intelligence Agency.

Poughkeepsie, by the way, is the home of Marist College, a Catholic liberal arts school founded by the Marist Brothers order in 1929.   It's a pretty sizable campus.   And it looked as if a lot of building has been done in the last few years.

When I returned to Hyde Park, I decided to spend some time at the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site, on the south side of town.   Within the park sits a Gilded Age 'country mansion' once owned by Frederick William Vanderbilt and his wife, Louise Holmes Anthony Torrance.   The house (photo left) has 45 rooms, and was designed by the architectural firm of McKim, Mead & White.   Construction took place between 1896 and 1899.

Frederick Vanderbilt was Director of the New York Central Railroad for 61 years.   He and Louise, sadly, were unable to have children of their own, and the house was deeded to a Vanderbilt niece, Margaret "Daisy" Van Alen, after Frederick Vanderbilt died in 1938.   Encouraged by her Hyde Park neighbor, President Franklin D. Roosevelt, Mrs. Van Alen donated a portion of the estate (which originally covered both sides of US Route 9), the house, and most of the original furnishings to the National Park Service, which took ownership in 1940.

Interesting historical tidbit: between 1941 and 1943, President Roosevelt's Secret Service detail lived in the basement and third-floor service areas of the house.  And some of his personal friends and guests were put up in the house, and even used the bedrooms of Frederick and Louise Vanderbilt!

I did not take a tour of the house itself, but contented myself with wandering about the spacious grounds.  The weather was so beautiful for early November: a hazy, golden autumn sun shone, and a slight breeze ruffled the many trees.   I wandered all round the house, taking photos of each side.   And I also found a little bit of a surprise: a snow bank, left over from the Halloween weekend nor'easter (photo right)!   I guess it wasn't melting fast, due to cold overnight temperatures.

At the back of the mansion, one could get spectacular views of the Hudson River, and the various buildings on the western bank.   Most of them were private homes (and some were of pretty good size).  But one very large property caught my eye.    According to a National Park Service ranger, who was giving a tour nearby, this large series of buildings was an Anglican Benedictine monastery, called "Holy Cross" (photo right).   For some reason, the Hudson Valley was once home to many Catholic seminaries and convents.   Most of them have closed, or been turned to secular use (like the Culinary Institute of America).    Don't know if there are any other Anglican religious houses like Holy Cross Monastery, that are still open.

The view also included glimpses of the beautiful Catskill Mountains, especially as one looked south and west from the river.   It is a very peaceful place to sit, and just enjoy the view (photo right).  

I wonder what Frederick and Louise Vanderbilt would have thought, seeing the many 'peasants' who come and walk around their former property, and visit their home?   Somehow, I don't think they would have minded.   This Vanderbilt couple shied away from the frenetic social world of Gilded Age New York and Newport, RI, and preferred living a quiet life, involved with local charitable efforts.   They were quite unlike their more famous relatives, Alva Smith Vanderbilt (later Belmont) and Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt.  These two women lived in two of the more famous Newport summer 'cottages': Marble House, and The Breakers, respectively.

Alva Smith Vanderbilt has a connection with Winston Churchill.   She forced her daughter, Consuelo (photo right, with the 9th Duke of Marlborough and their children), to marry Churchill's cousin Charles Spencer-Churchill, the Ninth Duke of Marlborough, in November 1895.   The Duke, nicknamed "Sunny", was a nephew of Winston's father, Lord Randolph Churchill.   Sunny was land-rich, but cash-poor, when he married Consuelo.   It was her Vanderbilt millions that helped him restore his ancestral home, Blenheim Palace.   But after giving the duke two sons--which Consuelo termed 'the heir and the spare'--the couple soon drifted apart.   They separated in 1906, divorced in 1921, and had the marriage annulled in August 1926.

Soon, the time came for me to check into my room at the Roosevelt Inn.   I left the Vanderbilt house around 1:30, and arrived at the inn soon afterwards.   I checked in with no problems, and went to my snug little room, dropping off my baggage and cleaning up a bit.   I took my clothes for Wednesday out of the suitcase, and hung them up in the closet.   After doing that, I decided to try and use the free Wi-Fi provided by the inn.   After a couple of attempts, I was successful, and did a little Web-surfing before supper.   And what a supper it was...!

I went out again around 4 pm--just before rush-hour--and stopped at a Hyde Park landmark for supper: The Eveready Diner.   It's a restored 1950s-era roadside diner, with all the chrome fixtures inside and out, a cool neon sign, and seating at tables and booths, and a counter with stools (photo left).  Music from the 1950s and early 1960s played quietly in the background, as I was led to a small table on the side, and ordered supper: a roast turkey dinner with stuffing, mashed potatoes, mixed vegetables and cranberry sauce.   I thought I'd get an early start on Thanksgiving.   And it was awesomely delicious--and huge!!!    I barely managed to finish most of it; I think I waddled out of the Eveready a few pounds heavier.   But was it ever good.   


The Eveready Diner is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.   And all their food is prepared on the premises.   If you love homemade food, and lots of it--the Eveready's the place to go.

So--stuffed to the gills, I returned to my room to relax.   I also hoped to contact Allen via phone, but I left a voice-mail message instead.   I decided I'd try and contact him again in the morning, while he was in transit from New York.   So with that thought, I took a shower and went to bed, and wondered what the next day would bring.

One Year On....

It is very hard for me to believe: one year ago today, I was excitedly preparing for my first trip to England.  Where in the world did the time go?    And I am feeling decidedly sad.

I'm sad because I remember how excited--and nervous--I was, to be flying again, after so many years.   Little did I realize how much the 'flying world' had changed since 9/11/01: more security checks, more intrusive questions--and the confiscation of health and beauty products deemed to be 'too much' to bring on board an aircraft.   But I put up with all that, just for the opportunity to achieve a dream: to visit a country I'd longed to see, and to finally meet with online English correspondents in person.

I particularly chose to go in November, because of the 'Remembrance season'.   In England, and in much of continental Europe, 11 November is Armistice Day: the anniversary of the end of the First World War.   England, and countries like Belgium and France, suffered terrible losses in that war.   And Armistice Day is a day that's taken very seriously.   It is when the people remember not only the dead from the First World War; they also remember those who died in the Second World War.   And for Britain in particular, they also remember those who've died in the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan.

From the end of October until Remembrance Sunday (the Sunday after 11 November), the British can be seen wearing poppy pins: a custom begun just after the Armistice.   Today, the poppy pins are sold by the Royal British Legion, to raise funds to care for war veterans past and present, and their families.   Everywhere one looks, one could see these little poppies worn on coats, suits and dresses.   And I wanted to be part of that; I wanted to see the way the British observe this most solemn day.

Even now, a year on, I wear poppy pins during this same time frame.   I want to remember those from Britain, Canada, Belgium and France, who lost their lives in 'the war to end all wars'.   I just wish that Americans showed that same seriousness of thought, instead of using 11 November as a reason to hold a retail sale.   It frustrates me to no end.

In any case, my thoughts now are with my English friends, and all those I encountered in England, Belgium and France, one year ago.   And I want to say to all those, in the military cemeteries I visited:

"At the going down of the sun, 

and in the morning:

We Will Remember Them".

A Tale of Two Cemeteries

This past Tuesday, I decided to take advantage of the drier weather outside, and resume my search for Winston Churchill's maternal ancestors in Pompey Hill, New York.   It ended up being 'a tale of two cemeteries': one alone and abandoned; the other, better maintained and fruitful.

My first stop was on Henneberry Road, in the town of Pompey: a long road leading from the hamlet of Pompey Hill into wooded hill country.   I passed by homes nestled in the woods, plus a farm or two.  I was in search of Sweet Cemetery, where Leonard Jerome's grandfather, Aaron, was said to be buried.   In the event, the cemetery was so small, I passed right by it; I had to turn around and look closely, as it was surrounded by old and gnarly trees.    Not only that: the ground inside was overgrown, with broken gravestones.  

With those challenges in mind, I was still determined to see what I could find in the cemetery.   Getting out of the car, I crossed the road, and discovered the gate would not open.   It was almost rusted shut, and the only way in was through a broken part of the encircling stone wall.   I gingerly climbed through the hole--the wall was just past my knees--and stepped round the loose stones and a huge tree root, and entered the cemetery grounds.

I didn't see a gravestone for Aaron Jerome among the few markers I found.   They were quite old: probably dating back to the American Revolution, or just afterwards.   A couple of them had been tipped over by vandals.   I also found a more recent burial: a local woman who loved gardening.   But the garden at her grave was sadly neglected: there was a bronze marker, with a small bouquet next to it.   Needless to say, I was most disappointed in what I found.   It was as if Aaron Jerome had been buried in an unmarked grave, aged only 37.

I retraced my steps out through the stone wall, and went back to my car.   I only took the one photograph (above left).   I drove back to Pompey Hill, and decided to visit the Jerome family plots in the larger, and better-maintained, Pompey Hill Cemetery across US Route 20.   On a previous visit last year, I did find two Jerome family plots in that cemetery.

I couldn't remember exactly where the Jerome plots were, so I spent more than a few minutes wandering about.   It was a sunny but cool day: there was a bit of a breeze, as I wandered amongst the gravestones, and reading the inscriptions.   Eventually, I found what I was looking for.

In the first Jerome family plot, I found the grave of one Miss Jennie A. Jerome (photo right).   She was the third cousin of Winston Churchill's mother, Jennie, Lady Randolph Churchill, and she spent her whole life in Pompey Hill.   She died in 1947: right around the time that Mr. Churchill sent twelve signed photographs of himself, to be raffled off and raise money for the rebuilding of the Pompey Presbyterian Church, which had been destroyed by fire in 1946.   Churchill referred to his cousin's death, in a letter written from his country home at Chartwell, in Kent, in August 1947:

Chartwell,
Westerham
Kent


August 30, 1947


Dear Mr. Durston:
Thank you for your letters of August 23 and 25.    I am indeed sorry to learn of the death of Miss Jennie Jerome, my mother's third cousin.   It is good of you to let me know about it.


I am glad to know that the photographs have arrived safely, and to think that they will be of some help in raising funds for the restoration of the Pompey church.


It would certainly interest me to visit the graves of Lieutenant Murray {possibly the father of Leonard's mother, Aurora Murray Jerome} and others of my forebears as you suggest.  Should an opportunity present itself, it would be a pleasure to me to come to Pompey and Syracuse, where I feel I have so many family and friendly connections.


Yours sincerely,
Winston S. Churchill
And in a handwritten postscript below his signature, Churchill writes:
Pray let me know how the photos go.


The "Mr. Durston" is one E.C. Durston.   I will have to find out some information on him; I found several letters he had written, in the Jerome family files at the Onondaga Historical Association.

It was really wonderful, to find Miss Jerome's grave, and connect her to her famous British cousin.   A fruitful visit to Pompey Hill Cemetery.

A Gift to the Citizens of Pompey Hill--From Winston Churchill

This past Saturday, I paid a visit to the Onondaga Historical Association in Syracuse, New York.   It was for the purpose of research, to discover more about Sir Winston Churchill's maternal grandfather, Leonard Jerome, and Churchill's family ties to Upstate New York.

When I arrived at the OHA's Research Center, I found two small boxes, and one large box, of Jerome family archives waiting for me.   In the first small box, I found typewritten genealogical records of the Jerome family dating back to the first Jerome to settle in Central New York: Timothy Jerome.   He was born c. 1688, on the Isle of Wight, off the coast of southern England.   He died in Wallingford, CT on February 3, 1749/50 (why there are two different years I'm not sure).   This explained why there was only a memorial stone to Timothy, in Pompey Hill Cemetery.

Timothy's son, Samuel Jerome, was born in Saratoga County, but moved to Genesee County in western New York, in 1789.  In 1791, Samuel visited the salt springs near present-day Syracuse, along Onondaga Lake.   His descendants say he died in Canada.

Samuel's son, Aaron, was born in Wallingford, CT, on December 4, 1764, and died in Pompey, NY, on August 14, 1802, at the age of only 37.   He is buried in the Sweet Cemetery, near Pompey.   That will be one of my next stops: to find Aaron's grave, and get a photo of it.

Aaron's son Isaac, was born in Charlton, Saratoga County, NY, on October 26, 1786.   He died in Syracuse, NY, on July 20, 1866.   He married Aurora Murray (born in Chatham, NY, on January 18, 1785) in New York City, on April 6, 1867.   They are both buried in Oakwood Cemetery, Syracuse.   During the War of 1812, Isaac was a Lieutenant of Grenadiers, 98th Regiment, Onondaga County Militia (1815).   He was made Captain in 1816.

Leonard is one of Isaac Jerome's children.

With that family background in mind, here is 'the rest of the story':

In 1946, the citizens of Pompey Hill lost a big part of their history, when the Pompey Presbyterian Church burnt down.   It was quite likely that this was the Jerome family's home church.   One of Churchill's cousins, Miss Lillian Jerome, wrote a letter to him in 1946, inquiring whether Churchill would be interested in sending a donation, to aid in the rebuilding effort.   Here is what Churchill wrote in reply:

"Chartwell,
Westerham,
Kent
April 10, 1947


"My dear Miss Lillian Jerome:


"I had hoped to be able to write to you long ago and to send you a subscription to the restoration fund of the Church at Pompey.   But alas, the matter did not prove so simple as I had thought.   As I felt some publicity might be given to this matter, I deemed it wise to obtain permission from the Treasury before sending my donation, and now, after some months of correspondence on the subject, my application has been refused.


"It has however occurred to me that you might like to have twelve signed photographs of myself that would-be subscribers might care to purchase as souvenirs and as a contribution to the admirable work of rebuilding Pompey Church.  Pray let me know if you think this is a good idea.


"I wish you all success in your campaign for the restoration fund.


Yours sincerely,
Winston S. Churchill"

And Churchill did just that, with this photo (left).   I can only imagine the excitement Miss Jerome must have felt, when she received these photographs.   I do wonder why the British Government at the time would not let Churchill send a donation--particularly since he was not Prime Minister at the time?

The resulting sale of these twelve signed photos netted a total of $400 towards the church's rebuilding.   I even found a list of those lucky people who won the raffle!

Wouldn't it be a great thing, if any of those photos are still in the hands of the families who won them?   I am sure they would be worth a lot of money, just for Churchill's signature alone.

And here is Churchill's signature, which appeared at the bottom of the photograph (photo left).

During my OHA visit, I also discovered this bit of news: Churchill was invited several times during his life, to visit his Jerome relatives in Pompey Hill, while visiting the United States.   One early visit was preempted by his serious run-in with a New York City taxi in the 1930s; during the 1940s, his wartime meetings with President Roosevelt made such personal visits impossible.

In July 1955, however, Churchill's daughter Sarah did pay a visit to Pompey Hill, while appearing in a summer stock play in nearby Fayetteville, New York: No Time For Comedy, which co-starred one Butterfly McQueen, of Gone With the Wind fame!

From the newspaper reports I found, Sarah enjoyed her visit with her Jerome cousins very much--particularly the cool hilltop breezes, in the heat of summer!   She visited the site of her great-grandfather Leonard's home, and even pumped some spring water for a drink!

This won't be my only visit to the Onondaga Historical Association.   There will be more in the near future.   Can't wait to go back.

In Search of Leonard Jerome

This past Tuesday, I made a research visit to the Pompey Historical Society, at Pompey Center, New York.  This small, but very active, group of local history enthusiasts have quite a collection of documents, photos, and artifacts, that tell the story of the town of Pompey and other surrounding small rural communities.

I was there to do research on the family of Leonard Jerome, father of Jennie, Lady Randolph Churchill--and Winston Churchill's maternal grandfather.   He was born in Pompey Hill, New York,  in November 1817, the son of Isaac and Aurora Murray Jerome.   Several branches of the larger Jerome family have also made their homes in the Pompey Hill area over the last 200-odd years: brothers, sisters, aunts, uncles, cousins and the like.   I found many of their grave sites in the Pompey Hill Cemetery, just outside the Pompey Hill limits.   They're located in three separate family plots.

The purpose for my visit to the Society was to find articles, photos and such, to assist Mr. Allen Packwood, the Chief Archivist of the Winston Churchill Archives at Churchill College, at the University of Cambridge in the UK, in putting together an upcoming exhibition on Winston Churchill's American ancestors.   This will be held at the Morgan Library in New York City, beginning in June 2012.   I met Mr. Packwood during my November 2010 visit to the UK, and was able to see some of the original Churchill letters and other documents in the Archives.   During my visit, Mr. Packwood asked if I could assist him in some way, in gathering information from local sources about Leonard Jerome's life in Upstate New York.   I said I would be happy to do what I could.

When I first arrived at the Society, I was met by a wonderful lady named Sandy Berlinguer, who lives in one of the former Jerome family homes (on Jerome Road!) in Pompey.   She made arrangements for me to go into the Society's Museum, which is only open for a few hours each day.   With the assistance of Ruth, the Director, I was able to go through their file folders and find all kinds of fascinating stuff!

First of all, Ruth showed me a display case, which had some beautiful 19th-century clothing: a small bonnet, and two black capes.   I discovered these were given to one Jennie Jerome of Pompey--by none other than Jennie Jerome, Lady Churchill! (Photo left).   The photograph on the cape in the photo is of Lady Churchill's namesake, Jennie Jerome.

It's a lovely black cloth cape, with what looks like a feathery collar.   The display case is usually kept covered, to keep these priceless artifacts from fading in sunlight, or artificial light.

The articles which I found consisted of a 1976 interview with an Irish relative of Jennie's, the author Anita Leslie.   She is the granddaughter of Jennie's sister, Leonie Jerome Leslie, and she's written several books on Leonard (The Fabulous Mr. Jerome) and Jennie Jerome, Lady Churchill.   It included photos of the Syracuse, New York, home of Jennie's paternal grandparents, Isaac and Aurora Murray Jerome, and of their gravesite in Syracuse's Oakwood Cemetery (Photo right).

It was fascinating to see the home that Isaac and Aurora lived in, on Syracuse's James Street (Photo right): this street was the site of many lovely mansions built for Syracuse's elite.   Here, Isaac and Aurora shared the house with one of their daughters.  Sadly this particular house was demolished in 1955.

I also found, and made copies of, several lengthy obituaries of Leonard Jerome himself.   He passed away in Brighton, England, in March 1891.   One of the obituaries called Leonard "A Typical New Yorker", and described his varied and colorful life and career: as a Gilded Age stockbroker, horse racing enthusiast, and music-lover.   I'll have to look at these in greater detail at leisure....

One of the really wonderful surprises I found were photographs of Leonard's parents, Isaac and Aurora (Photo right).  I should have tried to find out if the Society had copies of them, and how to obtain them!   They will make excellent additions to the exhibition.  They look like a prosperous and respectable 19th-century middle-class couple.

I hope there are photos in existence of Isaac's father Aaron Jerome--whom, I discovered, is buried in another Pompey cemetery, Sweet Hill.   Another goal to set: go there and find his grave, and get a photo or two.

One article from the Syracuse Post-Standard, dated October 26, 1941, has photos of several Jerome cousins of Winston Churchill: two elderly women and one elderly man, in their home in Pompey.   One of the ladies is Lady Churchill's namesake, one Miss Jennie A. Jerome.   The article told the story of the Jerome family's history in Pompey--and there is even a photo of the supposed birthplace of Leonard Jerome (Photo left)!   It was at one time a henhouse, if you can believe that!

The thing is: no one--not even the Pompey Center historians--knows for sure where Leonard was born.  It appears family records do not say very much.   And there are at least three locations in the town of Pompey, that claim to be the site of Leonard Jerome's birthplace.   This 'henhouse' is one of them.

Contrast that, with the huge mansion Leonard and his family called home, in Madison Square in New York City (Photo right).   It contained an opera house that seated 500, and one whole floor devoted to Leonard's beloved horses.    While not on the massive scale of, say, the Vanderbilt or Astor family 'castles' of the time, it's still a decent-sized house.

One could say that Leonard had really come a long way, from that small birthplace in rural Upstate New York.   How he managed to hold onto this house--when he made and lost at least three fortunes,

On a more human scale, I found two very charming photos of Jennie as a child: a group portrait of her with her sisters Clara and Leonie (Photo left), and one of Jennie and her mother, Clarissa Hall Jerome.   I'd love to discover where the originals of these are located.   They are ones I've never seen before.   I've got a couple of ideas where they could be....

Jennie is definitely the real beauty of the three girls, even at such a young age.   Beautiful dark eyes, and an intense face.   No wonder she charmed so many men as a grown woman!

The photo of Jennie and her mother is very interesting, too.   Once again, Jennie looks straight at the photographer, while her mother appears to be thinking of something else.   Maybe she is dreaming of the time spent in Italy, when Leonard was American consul in Trieste?

Clarissa considered herself to be more "European" than American.   She preferred living outside the US, where she felt her daughters could be 'launched into society', and meet prominent and/or important people.   It is odd, for someone who was born in Upstate New York.

All in all, it was a very fruitful time spent in Pompey Center.    I will definitely be back, to do more research, and see if I can find where the original photographs can be found.

An Amazing Opportunity

I see where I've not written a new post in a long time.   I've been busy with editing the posts about my UK/Europe adventure of November 2010, tweaking here and there for possible self-publication.   It's taken longer than I thought it would have!

But now, I want to write and share about a wonderful upcoming opportunity.   During my UK visit, I met with a gentleman named Allen Packwood, who is the Chief Archivist of the Winston Churchill Archives Centre at Churchill College--which is part of the University of Cambridge, in England.   He showed me some of the treasures in the Churchill Archives: letters, family photos, and copies of some of Churchill's own speeches.   It was a rare chance to see some well-known photos of young Winston, his brother John, and his parents Lord and Lady Randolph Churchill.

During the chat Allen and I had in his office, he shared with me about an upcoming exhibition that the Churchill Archives is involved in.   It is about Churchill and his American ancestors; Churchill's mother, the former Jennie Jerome (photo right), was the daughter of a Wall Street financier named Leonard Jerome, who was born in the hamlet of Pompey Hill, New York, in the country south of Syracuse.

Leonard's wife, Clarissa Hall, was born in the Western New York village of Palmyra.  Palmyra is also where Leonard met and married Clarissa, and where they lived briefly after their marriage--before their social ambitions and Leonard's work took them to New York City.

This exhibition will be held at the Morgan Library (photo left) in New York City, in June 2012.   And Allen has asked for my assistance, in finding any photos, documents, etc., that are related to Leonard and Clarissa Jerome, for inclusion in the exhibition.   And Allen has also asked if I can assist in the actual design for the exhibition!   He already has a principal designer--a staff member at the Morgan Library, I would imagine.   But he is also asking for my input, as the planning goes on.

Of course, I am more than happy to search for any of the documents and such.   There are historical societies in Pompey and Palmyra, that are well within driving distance to do research.   But to actually assist in the exhibition's design?!?   This is mind-boggling to me: I am just an ordinary person, with no university education or experience in such things!   It's very humbling to assist in this way.

Allen told me in a recent conversation that he will be making more visits to the US, as the exhibition draws closer.   And I invited him to come visit the Pompey Hill area, if possible.   I'd be more than happy to act as tour guide, and show the beautiful area where Leonard Jerome (photo left) was born.

I hope I am up to the design task.    I can definitely research.   But I am fighting self-doubts about the design part.   Time will tell how it all pans out.