I am back! To continue with a memorable Armistice Day in Ypres, Belgium....
As I left the "In Flanders Fields" Museum, I decided to do some exploring in Ypres itself. It was a very cold and wet day, with strong winds buffeting visitors in the Grand'Place. It was now around 12 noon, and I was feeling both cold and hungry. I spotted a small restaurant just off the Grand'Place, and decided to try it. I went in through the bar area, which was surprisingly smoke-filled. Don't know if the public smoking ban in Belgium had yet to be extended to drinking areas! But I was led through to a non-smoking main dining area, which was a relief. And it sure was busy!
The room was filled with chattering diners (some had come straight from the Menin Gate ceremony, as they all wore the poppy pin), as I was shown my table. I ordered a dish of chicken and rice with mushroom sauce, and a lemonade. While waiting for my meal, I watched the wait staff rushing to and fro with orders, and listened to the lively conversation of diners.
When lunch came, it was really delicious: the sauce came separate from the rice and chicken, and it was very flavorful. My lemonade came in a slender bottle, and was tart instead of sweet (the way I like it). The chicken was the surprise of the meal: it was incredibly tender and juicy, and it just fell off the bone! I enjoyed it very much, and made sure to tell the wait staff so.
It's a rather flamboyant memorial, with a dramatic center sculpture (photo right). It looks like a dead civilian (or is it a soldier?), mourned by women and angels (I am wondering if the angel in the background is the Archangel Michael, with upraised sword?). The "Lion of Flanders" roars in anguish in front. This is the same lion sculpture one sees atop the Menin Gate, come to think of it.
From the memorial, I made my way to St Martin's Cathedral. Like the Cloth Hall and the rest of Ypres, the cathedral was also totally destroyed by the Germans in 1914. Looking at it today, one could never tell it has been completely restored.
St Martin's Cathedral (photo right) was constructed between 1230 and 1370, and once served as the 'official' cathedral for the diocese of Ypres between 1561 and 1861, when Ypres was incorporated into the diocese of Ghent, Belgium. It does not serve in that capacity today, but is still referred to as a cathedral. Buried in the Cathedral crypt are Cornelius Jansen, the founder of the Jansenism theological movement, and Count Robert III, known as "The Lion of Flanders".
As I approached the Cathedral, I saw a closed door, and a very long line of people waiting to be admitted inside. I assumed it was for a tour of some sort. It was quite cold during the wait: the wind was blowing fiercely, and I had to stand with the wind to keep my coat hood on! The line grew, and the door remained closed, so I decided to get out of the line, cross the street, and get some photos of the Cathedral (above right and below right). After I took the photos, I saw that the Cathedral door was opening, so I got back into line.
As I approached the Cathedral, I saw a closed door, and a very long line of people waiting to be admitted inside. I assumed it was for a tour of some sort. It was quite cold during the wait: the wind was blowing fiercely, and I had to stand with the wind to keep my coat hood on! The line grew, and the door remained closed, so I decided to get out of the line, cross the street, and get some photos of the Cathedral (above right and below right). After I took the photos, I saw that the Cathedral door was opening, so I got back into line.
When I finally entered the Cathedral, I realized the wait was NOT for a guided tour: it was for a special Armistice Day concert, called "The Great War Remembered". It was sponsored by The Last Post Association, which was founded in 1928, and is responsible for, among other things, the continuance of the nightly "Last Post" ceremony at the Menin Gate. The concert was being performed several times this day, and I believe I was there for the final performance. I did not have a ticket (not knowing it had to be purchased beforehand), so I was asked to wait until the ticket-holders were admitted and seated--and then, perhaps, I'd be allowed to attend. Two people waiting with me decided not to wait, and left. But I am SO glad I stayed; about ten minutes before it began, I was allowed to stay, and I paid my admission.
While I waited, I got this spectacular interior photo of the Cathedral ( below left). I was so surprised the photo came out so well. The blue lights aren't there every day. But they did create a wonderful ambiance for the concert to come.
I was shown a seat on the right side of the nave (in the left photo), which had a view of the organ loft in front, and above. The organ was playing softly, as the vast crowd settled in. The swirling blue light on the ceiling had the effect of white clouds in a blue sky. I thought it was quite magical.
In the Sanctuary, there was seated an orchestra: the Royal Harmony Ypriana, consisting of 80 local musicians who perform at various ceremonies in Ypres, including this one for 11 November. There were also huge HD television screens set up in the Sanctuary, and around the nave, so those in the back, or in places with poor sight-lines, could see and hear what was happening 'onstage'.
Also appearing with Ypriana was the Loretto Senior School Chamber Choir from Scotland (Loretto was founded in 1827 as an independent boarding school and currently has just over 600 students); the buglers of the Last Post Association; the Beauvarlet Koksijde choir from Ypres; the Roeselaars Kamerkoor, a 20-member chamber choir from Ypres; the choir of Holy Trinity Church, Dartford, Kent, UK--and UK tenor soloist Sean Ruane.
The concert began with a Fanfare by Ypriana, followed by a short Welcome from Benoit Mottrie, chairman of the Last Post Association, which was read in both English and Dutch. Ypriana then played the latter part of Rossini's William Tell Overture, followed by another instrumental, Between the Two Rivers (depicting the peace of summer 1914, just before the First World War broke out). Then came a reading called Start World War I, read by a young woman named Ann Sophie Senesael. She sometimes spoke softly, which made it difficult to understand. But the pictures on the HD screens told the story of the start of the war.
Ypriana was then joined by the Loretto Senior School Chamber Choir, the Dartford choir, and Beauvarlet koor and Roselaars Kamerkoor for a rousing rendition of George Frederic Handel's coronation anthem, Zadok the Priest, with lyrics taken from the Old Testament, describing King Solomon's anointing and crowning. It's one of the four Coronation Anthems composed by Handel for the coronation of King George II of England in 1727, and it's been sung at every British Coronation since then.
When the applause for this anthem died down, Ypriana, along with the Fire & Rescue Service Bands and the Dartford Choir, performed the Overture to the HBO Second World War series Band of Brothers. It is such a moving, and popular, composition; the music is also used in a song called Requiem For a Soldier, sung by the British soprano Katherine Jenkins. This Overture always makes me cry. It's perfect for an occasion like this concert!
Then Sean Ruane appeared with Ypriana, to sing "Nessun Dorma" from the opera Turandot, by Giacomo Puccini. What a beautiful voice Mr. Ruane has! This aria was made popular by the late Italian tenor Luciano Pavarotti. But on this day, Sean Ruane made it his own!
When the applause died down, Ann Sophie Senesael reappeared, to read a verse entitled "Gas Attack 1915". The poem was accompanied on the TV screens by horrific images of battle in the First World War, as if to signal that the war was only going to get worse. When the poem was finished, Ann Sophie left the stage, and Ypriana performed the Overture to Carl Maria von Weber's opera Der Frieschutz: a very dramatic piece, that was considered too daring after its premiere in 1821 in Berlin.
The mood abruptly changed with the next piece: Pie Jesu. The program I received didn't say who the composer of this version was; the words are derived from the last couplet of the Dies Irae of the Roman Catholic Requiem Mass. The most well-known Pie Jesu is found in French composer Gabriel Faure's Requiem. This version was sung by the Loretto Senior School Chamber Choir--and the girl-soloist had the most angelic voice I'd ever heard! She gave me goosebumps, and I'm sure the rest of the audience felt the same way. She received sustained applause when she finished, and looked a bit embarrassed by all the attention!
Another poem, 1916-1917, was next, read by Ann Sophie, followed by a very moving rendition of the well-known hymn Amazing Grace, performed by the Combined Fire & Rescue Service Bands, tenor Sean Ruane, and Holy Trinity Dartford Choir. I wanted so much to sing along; I wonder if any other audience members wanted to as well? Then followed an instrumental piece by Ypriana, Supreme Sacrifice. I don't know who the composer of Supreme Sacrifice was.
Next was a prayer, For the Fallen, read by the Rt Rev Brian Llewellyn in English, and by E.H. Deken Roland Hemeryck in Dutch. It went as follows in English:
Remembrance
We remember before Thee with gratitude, O Lord our God, who gave their lives for the cause of freedom. Grant unto all of us for whom they died that their devotion may bear fruit in us in more abundant love for others, through Jesus Christ our Lord.
For those who suffer as a result of war
O Lord, our heavenly Father, we commend to Thy mercy all who suffer as the result of war; the maimed, those who are afflicted in mind; those who mourn. Have pity upon the homeless and friendless, and upon those who no longer have a country of their own. Fill us with compassion for them, prosper all who seek to minister to their needs, and hasten the coming of Thy Kingdom of justice and peace, through Christ our Lord. AMEN.
This prayer was followed by the sounding of "Last Post", by the Buglers of the Last Post Association. I never tire of hearing this bugle call: to me, it is even more moving than our Taps! It reverberated around the Cathedral walls, and then died away. The audience was deeply moved. It was then followed by the singing of one of my favorite hymns: Abide With Me, by Henry Francis Lyte. It was a favorite hymn of such diverse people as Britain's King George V, and Mahatma Gandhi (!), and sung at the weddings of King George VI, and his daughter Princess (now Queen) Elizabeth. It is also sung at ANZAC Day services in Australia and New Zealand, in April. Today, it was sung by the Beauvarlet Koor and Roselaars Kamerkoor. Another solemn lament followed, Roses of Kelvingrove, performed by the Combined Fire & Rescue Bands.
But the music performed in this concert wasn't totally solemn: and the following songs would testify to that!
Next came a medley of "Soldier Songs" from the Great War, performed by Ypriana and the four choirs: Mademoiselle From Armentieres, Pack Up Your Troubles In Your Old Kit Bag, Keep the Home Fires Burning, and It's a Long Way to Tipperary. And the audience was encouraged to sing along with the choruses! The version of Mademoiselle we sang was one of the 'cleaner' renditions; some of the more racy versions talk about 'washing soldiers' underwear' (and probably other stuff too!) and such. I wasn't familiar with the verses themselves, but I certainly knew the choruses!
It was SO much fun to sing along with the choirs and the orchestra: I couldn't get Mademoiselle and Tipperary out of my mind for days afterwards!! Still can't, now that I think about it..... The Loretto Choir also sang a beautiful version of Danny Boy; the young girl who sang solo for Pie Jesu did the same thing here, and was appreciated with more sustained applause.
It was SO much fun to sing along with the choirs and the orchestra: I couldn't get Mademoiselle and Tipperary out of my mind for days afterwards!! Still can't, now that I think about it..... The Loretto Choir also sang a beautiful version of Danny Boy; the young girl who sang solo for Pie Jesu did the same thing here, and was appreciated with more sustained applause.
These songs were followed by a song performed by the Fire & Rescue Service Bands, World In Union. The program notes say this is played during the Rugby World Cup, and attempts to capture the spirit of international friendship found in 'rugby union culture'. Sean Ruane, the four choirs, and Ypriana then followed with a beautiful version of an Irish poem, The Last Rose of Summer; then these same performers stayed around for a rousing version of British poet William Blake's Jerusalem, with music by Hubert Hastings Parry. This hymn has become an 'unofficial' English national anthem, and is sung at international soccer matches. The audience sang along, of course.
Jerusalem was then followed by one of the most beautiful and moving bagpipe songs I've ever heard: Highland Cathedral, played by the Combined Fire & Rescue Bands, with a bagpipe soloist. It was composed in 1982 for the Highland Games in Scotland, and is being proposed as Scotland's own official national anthem. I can't see why not: it has the most glorious melody, evoking the beauty of Scotland!
Here is a YouTube video of "Highland Cathedral",
performed by the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards
in Dunblane Cathedral in Scotland.
I did get a few photos of the various bands marching from the 'GrandPlace to the Menin Gate for the "Last Post" ceremony. There were also a number of soldiers marching in the 'parade': mainly from Belgium, but there could have been British ones too. They all marched smartly along, and the crowds lined up on both sides of the street (and behind the police barricades) applauded them enthusiastically.
I tried to get good photos of the bands (right and below), but they were initially a bit blurry, because of the motion. Thank heaven for a photo-sharpening software!
The spectators in the street, and those within the Menin Gate, fell silent as 8 pm approached, and the members of the Ypres Fire Brigade sounded the "Last Post". The middle verse of Laurence Binyon's poem For the Fallen, was also read, and the crowd repeated the last line: "We will remember them". I couldn't see from my vantage point, but there was yet another wreath-laying ceremony that evening, although not as large as at the morning service. But it was moving, all the same.
performed by the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards
in Dunblane Cathedral in Scotland.
When this song was finished, there was a storm of applause ringing throughout St Martin's Cathedral. I do hope the Scots adopt this as their national anthem!!
When the applause faded away, we all stood for the national anthems of Great Britain and Belgium: God Save the Queen, and The Brabanconne, respectively. Even though I am not a British subject, I still sang along to the UK anthem. On this trip, I am British at heart (although my Irish ancestors might take exception to that)! The concert concluded with the Fire & Rescue Bands playing Auld Lang Syne, before we filed out of the Cathedral, into the waiting evening.
All I can say is: what an incredible concert!!
All I can say is: what an incredible concert!!
When the crowd came back outside, the rain had finally stopped, but it was still windy and cold in the Grand'Place. It was around 6 pm or so, and time to head back to the Menin Gate for the evening "Last Post" ceremony. The street was surrounded by metal barricades, as the bands that played at the concert were to make their way back towards the Gate.
I did stop in at "The British Grenadier" to say hello to Steve, and tell him a little about the concert, but I didn't stay long. I went back out and moved closer to the Gate, joining the throngs of Belgians, Brits, Canadians--and whomever else!--lining the street. I chatted with a Belgian lady, and also attempted to make friends with an Italian Greyhound and a nervous black-and-white King Charles Spaniel, who were straining at the lead to sniff each other. The Greyhound (photo above left) wore a little sweater, and was called "Gawa": the owners said it was a Sikh word that meant "Good Luck"!
I tried to get good photos of the bands (right and below), but they were initially a bit blurry, because of the motion. Thank heaven for a photo-sharpening software!
After the ceremony was over, and the crowds dispersed, I lingered for a short while within the Menin Gate, and looked again at the piles of wreaths from the morning, and the new ones laid that evening. I also chatted with a couple from Yorkshire named Carl and Jo, and we shared our various feelings about the day, and the evening ceremony. They were also looking for a specific name inscribed on the inner walls of the Gate. I think they did find it.
By now, it was getting late, and I thought I had better get back to Erna's house. The streets were virtually deserted on the other side of the Menin Gate, but there were a few stragglers from the ceremony, as I quickly walked. Stupidly, I didn't keep track of any landmarks when Erna brought me to the Gate earlier that morning, so I wasn't sure where I was. I found my way into one neighborhood, but all the houses looked the same in the dark and narrow streets; I asked one couple where Erna's street was, and they gave it to me in broken English. But I only ended up going completely in circles!
At this point, I was totally confused, and decided to go back into the walled part of Ypres, and find Steve. After futilely asking directions from a Middle Eastern liquor-store owner, I went back through the Menin Gate--only to discover that Steve's shop was closed for the night!
I didn't panic, surprisingly; I kept my wits about me and thought about calling a taxi, so I went to a nearby pizzeria: "Poppy Pizzeria", if you can believe that! There were few customers inside--but two, thankfully, were British! They told me they were from Liverpool, and I told them about my day in Ypres, and my current dilemma. They asked the young manager for help--and when I showed him Erna's address, he told me he knew her!!!! The young man's name was Trevor, and is originally from The Netherlands. His dad owns "Poppy Pizzeria", and he came to Belgium to be with his then-girlfriend (he told me they had since broken up)--and they would stay at Erna's house. And to make it all the more incredible: Trevor told me they stayed in the very room I was currently occupying!!!
As Trevor drove me back to Erna's, we cracked up about this amazing coincidence. He was so kind--as was the British couple--and I thanked them both for all their help. I let myself in the front door (Erna had given me a key for just such an event), and saw Erna and told her about meeting Trevor. She thought it was very funny.
By this time, it was quite late, so I wished Erna good night, and toddled upstairs to bed. It was the end of another awesome and spectacular day. And I had one more to go in Belgium!
