"At the Going Down of the Sun, and In the Morning,
We Will Remember Them".
For me personally, it was another unforgettable day in London.
It started out gray and chilly, but rain-free, as I walked from my hotel, up Victoria Street to Westminster Abbey, in hopes of attending its special Remembrance Sunday Service. I didn't have time to eat breakfast beforehand, as I wanted to be sure to get to the Abbey in time before the 10:30 am service. When I arrived, I spent time in the Field of Remembrance, taking lots of photos of the various 'fields' placed by regiments, Service support units, and veterans' organizations.
I wished I'd gotten their names. But before I left them, I took their hands in mine and thanked them for their service. They were pleased with that. And I have the feeling the Scot was trying to flirt with me....!
Off I went to the Field of Remembrance. There were lots of photo opportunities here. And there were a lot of people about, pausing to look at the names on the Memorial crosses, and also waiting to be admitted to the Abbey service. I saw both elderly veterans wearing their Service medals, and young current Service personnel, including some rather dashing (and boyish-looking!) Royal Navy sailors.
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| Memorial Wreath In Honour of the British Army. Field of Remembrance, Westminster Abbey. |
It was absolutely staggering, how many 'Fields' there were, 'planted' on the Abbey green. One saw memorials for all sorts of units in the British Armed Services: historic regiments, Support Services, units made up of Second World War or Korean War veterans. There were 'Fields' for Dragoon Guards and Dragoons, Life Guards and Household Cavalry Regiments, the Hussars, the Lancers, London Regiments, and various Royal British Legion plots.
Some of the names were rather whimsical, and so totally British: the Memorable Order of Tin Hats is just one; another is the Old Contemptibles: the original British Expeditionary Force in the First World War; these men were the survivors of the pre-war British Army, which was made up of career professionals.
The name "Old Contemptibles' comes from a comment made by Germany's Kaiser Wilhelm II, who was dismissive of the small British Army sent to fight German forces in Belgium and France. In 1914, he supposedly issued an order to '....exterminate the treacherous English...and walk over General {John} French's contemptible little army'. Hence, The Old Contemptibles.
The name "Old Contemptibles' comes from a comment made by Germany's Kaiser Wilhelm II, who was dismissive of the small British Army sent to fight German forces in Belgium and France. In 1914, he supposedly issued an order to '....exterminate the treacherous English...and walk over General {John} French's contemptible little army'. Hence, The Old Contemptibles.
The UK Services Personnel 'Field' was quite large. Many of the poppy crosses displayed photos of men and women who were killed in both Afghanistan since 2001, and in Iraq after 2003 (photo left).
Other UK Service Personnel "Fields" included those 'Unknown Soldiers' who were probably killed in both World Wars, whose remains were never found, and have no known grave. I imagine they represented many of the names I saw on the Menin Gate Memorial in Ypres. Those were located on the Green on the Abbey's North side.
I also saw 'Fields' for several other countries: Australia, Canada, New Zealand--and even the United States. The 'Field' for Canada (photo right) was almost as large as the one for UK Service Personnel killed in Afghanistan. Many of the poppy crosses had photos of the Canadian Forces personnel who've died in Afghanistan since 2001.
There were also poppy crosses for Canadian Forces members who died in both World Wars, and in Korea.
I lost count as to how many photos of the Field I took that morning. I couldn't take enough of them, they were all so poignant.
There were also poppy crosses for Canadian Forces members who died in both World Wars, and in Korea.
I lost count as to how many photos of the Field I took that morning. I couldn't take enough of them, they were all so poignant.
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| Memorial Wreath for the Royal Air Force. Field of Remembrance, Westminster Abbey. |
But I took a chance, and went to the Abbey's West Door, and inquired whether I did need a ticket to attend. Thankfully, it was not the case! I was escorted to a few rows of 'non-reserved' seating right beside the Choir Screen, on the right side. I found a seat in the very last row, and sat down to wait, and observe the scene around me.
The Abbey slowly began to fill up, while I watched. I saw many Armed Services personnel in their dress uniforms, and veterans of past wars with their chests full of medals. I also noticed many of the women were dressed up, and wearing very fancy hats (although nothing that could be considered 'over-the-top'). I must admit I felt a bit under dressed, even in my best black trousers and black dress shirt!
Soon, a middle-aged British couple sat down next to me, and introduced themselves; their names were Jenny and Adrian. Adrian was a Second World War veteran; he told me he served in Italy, and he wore several Service medals. I chatted with them quietly before the service began; I shared with them about my wreath-laying 'duty' in Ypres, and my breakfast with Sir Martin Gilbert. I must admit they were impressed by that. When I thought about our encounter afterwards, I felt like a shameless name-dropper....
Soon, a middle-aged British couple sat down next to me, and introduced themselves; their names were Jenny and Adrian. Adrian was a Second World War veteran; he told me he served in Italy, and he wore several Service medals. I chatted with them quietly before the service began; I shared with them about my wreath-laying 'duty' in Ypres, and my breakfast with Sir Martin Gilbert. I must admit they were impressed by that. When I thought about our encounter afterwards, I felt like a shameless name-dropper....
The service itself began promptly at 10:30 am. It started with the Lord Mayor of Westminster, Judith Warner, being conducted to her seat in the Choir, and was soon followed by the clergy and choir of Westminster Abbey in procession from the West Door. The congregation stood and sang O God Our Help In Ages Past--all the verses. And it was sung robustly by all present.
After a Bidding prayer by the Dean of Westminster, John Robert Hall, the Abbey Choir chanted Psalm 46: "God is our hope and strength; a very present help in trouble....". This was followed by a reading from Isaiah, Chapter 65, by the Lord Mayor of Westminster:
"For I am about to create new heavens and a new earth; the former shall not be remembered, nor come into mind. I will rejoice in Jerusalem, and delight in My people: no more shall the sound of weeping be heard in it, or the cry of distress. No more shall there be in it an infant that lives but a few days, or an old person who does not live out a lifetime; for one who dies at a hundred years will be considered a youth, and one who falls short of a hundred will be considered accursed. They shall build houses and inhabit them; they shall plant vineyards and eat their fruit. They shall not build and another inhabit: they shall not plant and another eat; for like the days of a tree shall the days of My people be, and My chosen shall long enjoy the work of their hands. Before they call I will answer, while they are yet speaking I will hear. The wolf and the lamb shall feed together, and the lion shall eat straw like the ox; but the serpent--its food shall be dust! They shall not hurt nor destroy on all My holy mountain, says the Lord".
The next hymn, "Thy Kingdom Come, O God", was the first unfamiliar (to me) hymn in the service. I listened to the melody of the first verse, and then sang the subsequent verses. This was followed by the next Lesson, read by Rev. Dr. Nicholas Sagovsky, Canon in Residence, from Romans Chapter 8:
"What then are we to say about these things? If God is for us, who is against us? He who did not withhold His own Son, but gave Him up for all of us, will He not with Him also give us everything else? Who will bring any charge against God's elect? It is God Who justifies. Who is to condemn? It is Christ Jesus, Who died, yes, Who was raised, Who is at the right hand of God, Who indeed intercedes for us. Who will separate us from the love of Christ? Will hardship, or distress, or persecution, or famine, or nakedness, or peril, or sword? No, in all these things we are more than conquerors through Him Who loved us. For I am convinced that neither death, nor life, nor angels, nor rules, nor things present, nor things to come, nor powers, nor height, nor depth, nor anything else in creation, will be able to separate us from the love of God in Christ Jesus our Lord".
As the congregation remained seated, the Abbey Choir sang the Anthem, its text taken from Revelation 21: 1-4. It is one of the most moving sections of the Bible, and was particularly so on this day:
"And I saw a new heaven and a new earth: for the first heaven and the first earth were passed away; and there was no more sea. And I, John, saw the Holy City, the New Jerusalem, coming down from God out of heaven, prepared as a bride adorned for her husband. And I heard a great voice out of heaven, saying, Behold, the tabernacle of God is with men, and He will dwell with them, and they shall be His people, and God Himself shall be with them, and be their God. And God shall wipe away all tears from their eyes, and there shall be no more death, neither sorrow, nor crying, neither shall there be any more pain; for the former things are passed away".
I hope that last verse brought some consolation to those in the congregation, who might have lost a family member in Afghanistan during the year.
Then followed the Intercessions, led by the Rev. Michael Macey, Minor Canon. After that came another unfamiliar hymn, "Judge Eternal, Throned in Splendour". The words were beautiful, indeed. Then the clerical and lay Procession--including Official Representatives of the Merchant Air Service, The Merchant Navy, the Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police, the Royal Air Force, the Royal Navy and the Army--moved to the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior, located just inside the West Door (photo left). The congregation all stood, as the Dean read this prayer:
"O Lord our God, Whose Name only is excellent and Thy praise above heaven and earth: we remember in Thy Presence those who laid down their lives in war. May they find fulfillment in Thy eternal Kingdom; and grant that we may dedicate our lives to the causes of justice and freedom, for which they died: through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen".
The Abbey Choir then sang one of the most moving pieces of music I've ever heard: The Kontakion For the Dead, which sounded very much like a Russian Orthodox chant:
"Give rest, O Christ, to Thy servants with Thy saints: where sorrow and pain are no more; neither sighing, but life everlasting. Thou only art immortal, the Creator and Maker of man: and we are mortal, formed of the earth, and unto earth shall we return, for so Thou didst ordain, when Thou createdst me, saying, Dust thou art, and unto dust shalt thou return. All we go down to the dust; and weeping o'er the grave, we make our song: alleluia, alleluia, alleluia! Give rest, O Christ, to Thy servants with Thy saints: where sorrow and pain are no more: neither sighing, but life everlasting".
By now, it was 11 am. From the outside, we could hear Big Ben sounding the hour, followed by a loud blast which shook the Abbey: it was an artillery piece fired from Hyde Park, to signal the start of the Two-Minute Silence. I heard a couple of scattered coughs; but otherwise, it was total silence in the Abbey. And the same Silence was taking place not far away, in Whitehall at The Cenotaph. That was where HM The Queen, the senior Royals, the Prime Minister, other Government and Military leaders, and members of the public were participating in their own Service of Remembrance.
When the Silence ended, the Abbey Choir sang the famous verse from First World War poet Laurence Binyon's poem For the Fallen:
Here's a YouTube video of
the Remembrance Sunday Service at
The Cenotaph in Whitehall.
The Last Post is included in the video.
I joined the crowds lined up along Parliament Square, who awaited the arrival of the March-Past. Of course, there was a band to start the march off, in great British style. I wasn't sure if these men in the photo (photo left) were from the Life Guards or Coldstream Guards. But I've always loved the huge bearskin hats they wear. How in the world do they see where they're going?
When I came out of the street, I found myself in St James's Park. I asked a nearby female Bobby how to get to Trafalgar Square; she said to 'follow the red brick road'--a red gravel path actually--to The Mall. I thanked her, and crossed a bridge over a lake--and noticed, to my left, Buckingham Palace (photo left) and the Queen Victoria Memorial.
The Park has become one of my favorite places to be in London. Walking along its paths is the best way to relax, after a long day's worth of walking and sightseeing.
Soon, I found The Mall: the great ceremonial road between Admiralty Arch (photo right) and Buckingham Palace. Admiralty Arch was dedicated in 1910 by King Edward VII, as a memorial to his mother, Queen Victoria.
There were no cars on The Mall this Remembrance Sunday, which was really nice.
As I looked up over the buildings to my left, I found Lord Nelson's Column towering above all. I was very close to Trafalgar Square! I walked up The Mall and through Admiralty Arch, and then up a short flight of steps to the Square.
Soon, I would be standing in one of London's most famous gathering places: Trafalgar Square, dedicated to the memory of Admiral Horatio, Lord Nelson--one of Britain's most famous military heroes. He fought against the navy of the French Emperor, Napoleon Bonaparte, in the early years of the 19th century; the Square is named for one of Lord Nelson's greatest victories, the Battle of Trafalgar, fought off the coast of Spain, on 21 October 1805.
Sadly, it was the Admiral's final victory: he was mortally wounded during the battle, and died the same day. He was brought back to the UK and given a State funeral, and was buried in London's St Paul's Cathedral.
The Column is 'guarded' on four sides by fierce-looking British lions (right). These 'beasts' have been photographed and climbed upon by tourists and Londoners alike, since they were put in place in 1867. The lions were designed by Sir Edwin Landseer, and sculpted by Baron Marochetti.
For myself, I think these lions look quite magnificent!
The National Gallery is home to some of Britain's greatest art treasures, and we were going to see as many of them as we could, in a short time.
The Gallery is laid out in some of the most gorgeous rooms I've ever seen: high ceilings, beautiful woodwork round the doors, and perfect lighting effects. We found works by masters such as Leonardo da Vinci, Vincent Van Gogh, Titian, Peter Paul Rubens, Rembrandt, and most of the French Impressionists, such as Claude Monet and Edouard Manet. We also saw English works by John Constable, Turner, and Sir Thomas Gainsborough--and King Henry VIII's favorite painter, Hans Holbein the Younger.
One of Holbein's works was of the teenage Princess Christina of Denmark, (photo left) painted in 1538, during the time Henry was looking for his fourth wife. She turned the King down, saying "If I had two heads, one would be at the King of England's disposal"! Christina was definitely a smart girl!!
The Princess was quite lovely, dressed in a long black gown, with a black cap covering her head.
We didn't see many more paintings, alas, as it was getting late in the afternoon, and Myles and Megan had to get back to their hometown of Farnham. When we got back outside, I asked them if I could take their photo, to remember our time together. Myles said yes, and that's what we did (left).
When we got back into Trafalgar Square at Lord Nelson's Column, I hugged Megan goodbye, and wished her a good week at school; I then hugged Myles, and thanked him for lunch, and for the company at the National Gallery. And then they were off, back to Waterloo Station, and home.
It was around 4 or so, and the rain had finally stopped--mercifully. But the streets of London were still full of people, as I made my way back along Whitehall, to Westminster. Whitehall was now open to vehicular traffic; it had been closed during the ceremony at The Cenotaph, and the Royal British Legion March-Past earlier in the day.
I walked the entire length of Whitehall, passing Horse Guards (the horses and their riders were not 'on duty' outside overnight), and stopped at The Cenotaph (photo left), to look at the floral tributes left by The Queen, senior Royals, the Prime Minister and his Government, regimental organizations, veterans' groups, and many others. I also took photos of both sides of The Cenotaph.
Many passers-by stopped along the metal fence surrounding The Cenotaph, to read the inscriptions on the cards on the wreaths, or to look for a specific wreath. The crowd was quiet and dignified: no shouting or even laughing. It was a very moving thing to see.
I was really amazed at the number of passers-by, at this time of the evening. I suppose that a major city like London never really 'sleeps'. There is always something going on.
But on this particular evening, there was still a solemnity in the air: that this was not supposed to be 'just any Sunday' evening in London. It was a day to reflect, and to remember, all those Britons who had given their lives in war; or, as President Lincoln said so perfectly in the Gettysburg Address: 'the last full measure of devotion.'
After a Bidding prayer by the Dean of Westminster, John Robert Hall, the Abbey Choir chanted Psalm 46: "God is our hope and strength; a very present help in trouble....". This was followed by a reading from Isaiah, Chapter 65, by the Lord Mayor of Westminster:
"For I am about to create new heavens and a new earth; the former shall not be remembered, nor come into mind. I will rejoice in Jerusalem, and delight in My people: no more shall the sound of weeping be heard in it, or the cry of distress. No more shall there be in it an infant that lives but a few days, or an old person who does not live out a lifetime; for one who dies at a hundred years will be considered a youth, and one who falls short of a hundred will be considered accursed. They shall build houses and inhabit them; they shall plant vineyards and eat their fruit. They shall not build and another inhabit: they shall not plant and another eat; for like the days of a tree shall the days of My people be, and My chosen shall long enjoy the work of their hands. Before they call I will answer, while they are yet speaking I will hear. The wolf and the lamb shall feed together, and the lion shall eat straw like the ox; but the serpent--its food shall be dust! They shall not hurt nor destroy on all My holy mountain, says the Lord".
The next hymn, "Thy Kingdom Come, O God", was the first unfamiliar (to me) hymn in the service. I listened to the melody of the first verse, and then sang the subsequent verses. This was followed by the next Lesson, read by Rev. Dr. Nicholas Sagovsky, Canon in Residence, from Romans Chapter 8:
"What then are we to say about these things? If God is for us, who is against us? He who did not withhold His own Son, but gave Him up for all of us, will He not with Him also give us everything else? Who will bring any charge against God's elect? It is God Who justifies. Who is to condemn? It is Christ Jesus, Who died, yes, Who was raised, Who is at the right hand of God, Who indeed intercedes for us. Who will separate us from the love of Christ? Will hardship, or distress, or persecution, or famine, or nakedness, or peril, or sword? No, in all these things we are more than conquerors through Him Who loved us. For I am convinced that neither death, nor life, nor angels, nor rules, nor things present, nor things to come, nor powers, nor height, nor depth, nor anything else in creation, will be able to separate us from the love of God in Christ Jesus our Lord".
As the congregation remained seated, the Abbey Choir sang the Anthem, its text taken from Revelation 21: 1-4. It is one of the most moving sections of the Bible, and was particularly so on this day:
"And I saw a new heaven and a new earth: for the first heaven and the first earth were passed away; and there was no more sea. And I, John, saw the Holy City, the New Jerusalem, coming down from God out of heaven, prepared as a bride adorned for her husband. And I heard a great voice out of heaven, saying, Behold, the tabernacle of God is with men, and He will dwell with them, and they shall be His people, and God Himself shall be with them, and be their God. And God shall wipe away all tears from their eyes, and there shall be no more death, neither sorrow, nor crying, neither shall there be any more pain; for the former things are passed away".
I hope that last verse brought some consolation to those in the congregation, who might have lost a family member in Afghanistan during the year.
Then followed the Intercessions, led by the Rev. Michael Macey, Minor Canon. After that came another unfamiliar hymn, "Judge Eternal, Throned in Splendour". The words were beautiful, indeed. Then the clerical and lay Procession--including Official Representatives of the Merchant Air Service, The Merchant Navy, the Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police, the Royal Air Force, the Royal Navy and the Army--moved to the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior, located just inside the West Door (photo left). The congregation all stood, as the Dean read this prayer:
"O Lord our God, Whose Name only is excellent and Thy praise above heaven and earth: we remember in Thy Presence those who laid down their lives in war. May they find fulfillment in Thy eternal Kingdom; and grant that we may dedicate our lives to the causes of justice and freedom, for which they died: through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen".
The Abbey Choir then sang one of the most moving pieces of music I've ever heard: The Kontakion For the Dead, which sounded very much like a Russian Orthodox chant:
"Give rest, O Christ, to Thy servants with Thy saints: where sorrow and pain are no more; neither sighing, but life everlasting. Thou only art immortal, the Creator and Maker of man: and we are mortal, formed of the earth, and unto earth shall we return, for so Thou didst ordain, when Thou createdst me, saying, Dust thou art, and unto dust shalt thou return. All we go down to the dust; and weeping o'er the grave, we make our song: alleluia, alleluia, alleluia! Give rest, O Christ, to Thy servants with Thy saints: where sorrow and pain are no more: neither sighing, but life everlasting".
By now, it was 11 am. From the outside, we could hear Big Ben sounding the hour, followed by a loud blast which shook the Abbey: it was an artillery piece fired from Hyde Park, to signal the start of the Two-Minute Silence. I heard a couple of scattered coughs; but otherwise, it was total silence in the Abbey. And the same Silence was taking place not far away, in Whitehall at The Cenotaph. That was where HM The Queen, the senior Royals, the Prime Minister, other Government and Military leaders, and members of the public were participating in their own Service of Remembrance.
When the Silence ended, the Abbey Choir sang the famous verse from First World War poet Laurence Binyon's poem For the Fallen:
"They shall grow not old as we that are left grow old
age shall not weary them nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun, and in the morning,
We will remember them".
And everyone present, including myself, repeated: "We will remember them".
We all stood, as the first notes of The Last Post sounded through the Abbey. Tears rolled down my cheeks--and then Jenny gently touched my shoulder, and pointed to the Choir Screen above me. As I looked up, I could just see the front edge of the bugle sticking out above the wall. The Bugler was right above me! As the final note slowly died away, the Bugler suddenly sounded Reveille, which rang throughout the Abbey.
Here's a YouTube video of
the Remembrance Sunday Service at
The Cenotaph in Whitehall.
The Last Post is included in the video.
Next, the congregation sat back down, and the Choir sang, in Latin, a Renaissance chant by English composer William Byrd (one of my favorite composers), with words from the Apochryphal book of Wisdom: "The souls of the righteous are in the hand of God, and there shall no torment touch them. In the sight of the unwise they seemed to die: but they are at peace". This was followed by the Dean leading the congregation in reciting the first half of Francis of Assisi's prayer, Lord, make us instruments of Thy Peace, followed by The Lord's Prayer.
After the prayers came the last unfamiliar hymn sung by the Abbey Choir and the congregation: Christ Is the World's True Light, sung to the more-familiar tune of Now Thank We All Our God. Again, I semi-sang the first verse, and then felt more confident in joining in with the last two verses.
After the prayers came the last unfamiliar hymn sung by the Abbey Choir and the congregation: Christ Is the World's True Light, sung to the more-familiar tune of Now Thank We All Our God. Again, I semi-sang the first verse, and then felt more confident in joining in with the last two verses.
The service ended with The Blessing, followed by the singing of God Save the Queen. I sang along, as, I suppose, an 'honorary Brit' for the day. As the Processions left the Abbey, the congregation remained standing, and then after bidding farewell to Jenny and Adrian (with whom I shook hands, and I gave Adrian a kiss, in thanks for his military service), I followed the crowd out towards the West Door. On the way, I briefly stopped before two young Army men dressed in splendid formal uniform and thanked them for their service.
As the congregation passed round the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior, many placed poppy pins on the grave in respect. I found one at the outside edge of the Tomb and bent to pick it up and place it--and, in regaining my balance, accidentally grasped one of the flanking candlesticks by the Tomb, and almost knocked it over--and it was a lit candle to boot! What an embarrassment that moment would have been!!!
As I left the Abbey precincts, my original plan was to walk up Whitehall to Trafalgar Square, where I would meet my British friend Myles and his daughter Megan, and together we would pay a visit to London's National Gallery. But I soon noticed that would be impossible: there were metal crowd-control barriers up on both sides of Whitehall: not for any public demonstrations, but instead for the Royal British Legion's Remembrance Sunday March-Past, consisting of Legion members and veterans--all marching up from the service at The Cenotaph.
I recognized the red coats of the Chelsea Pensioners: (photo right) the residents of the Royal Hospital Chelsea, a retirement and nursing home for British soldiers located in Chelsea, central London. The Hospital was founded by King Charles II, by Royal Warrant, in 1681, to make provision for injured and disabled soldiers.
The main building of the Hospital was designed by Sir Christopher Wren, the architect of St Paul's Cathedral in London.
The main building of the Hospital was designed by Sir Christopher Wren, the architect of St Paul's Cathedral in London.
I also recognized the veterans of the Parachute Regiment by their distinctive red berets (photo left). I wondered how many of the veterans might have served in the Second World War's major airborne campaigns, such as Operation Market Garden in The Netherlands, in September 1944? Or maybe on D-Day, 6 June 1944? How many of their deceased comrades were they thinking about at that moment?
There were both young men and elderly veterans marching smartly past; one of the younger officers would march alongside the veterans and shout out 'left-right-left-right'', and the veterans did everything possible to stay in step. Some were infirm enough to be in wheelchairs, but it didn't keep them from obeying the young officer!
There were both young men and elderly veterans marching smartly past; one of the younger officers would march alongside the veterans and shout out 'left-right-left-right'', and the veterans did everything possible to stay in step. Some were infirm enough to be in wheelchairs, but it didn't keep them from obeying the young officer!
I took quite a few photos during the March-Past (photo left). It was so wonderful to see the crowds come out to applaud both the veterans, and current Service Members, and show their support. The applause was both warm and enthusiastic, but never over-the-top. It's definitely the British way of doing special days like this.
I couldn't leave Parliament Square without taking a photo of the statue of Sir Winston Churchill, as he looks over towards the Houses of Parliament (below, left).
All that week, there were fence barriers in front of the statue--there were demonstrators around the edges of the square, protesting the UK's military involvements in Afghanistan and Iraq. Several of them had put up tents, and appeared to be wanting to stay for awhile. But they were not allowed in the Square proper. I suppose the fences were put up in order to protect the grass from being trampled upon over much, by the demonstrators and curious visitors.
The demonstrators were peaceful; they didn't harass passers-by like me. And I didn't make any eye contact with them. I wonder what Mr. Churchill would have thought of them? I would imagine he would have let them say their peace, so long as it was 'peaceful'. If they weren't, I'm sure he would have done whatever was needed to keep the peace. And maybe he would have let the demonstrators feel the full force of his oratorical skills! Now that I would have loved to have seen and heard!
It was now raining a bit more steadily. And try as I might, I could not find a way out of the crowds to get on my way to Trafalgar Square. Eventually, I followed a few people with the same idea in mind (at least in finding a way out). I found myself on a narrow side-street with beautiful Queen Anne-style townhouses with shiny-painted doors and brass knockers. The windows hung out over the street, which was a bit crooked too.
I couldn't leave Parliament Square without taking a photo of the statue of Sir Winston Churchill, as he looks over towards the Houses of Parliament (below, left).
All that week, there were fence barriers in front of the statue--there were demonstrators around the edges of the square, protesting the UK's military involvements in Afghanistan and Iraq. Several of them had put up tents, and appeared to be wanting to stay for awhile. But they were not allowed in the Square proper. I suppose the fences were put up in order to protect the grass from being trampled upon over much, by the demonstrators and curious visitors.
It was now raining a bit more steadily. And try as I might, I could not find a way out of the crowds to get on my way to Trafalgar Square. Eventually, I followed a few people with the same idea in mind (at least in finding a way out). I found myself on a narrow side-street with beautiful Queen Anne-style townhouses with shiny-painted doors and brass knockers. The windows hung out over the street, which was a bit crooked too.
I wish I'd gotten a few photos of these buildings. It was as if the Second World War had never touched this area of Westminster!
The Park has become one of my favorite places to be in London. Walking along its paths is the best way to relax, after a long day's worth of walking and sightseeing.
Walking along the lakeshore, where ducks, geese and swans congregated, I noticed a most interesting marker in the path (photo below). This portion of the path through St James's Park was dedicated to the memory of the late Diana, Princess of Wales.
I think she would have liked this walk, through such a beautiful green area of London.
I think she would have liked this walk, through such a beautiful green area of London.
There were no cars on The Mall this Remembrance Sunday, which was really nice.
As I looked up over the buildings to my left, I found Lord Nelson's Column towering above all. I was very close to Trafalgar Square! I walked up The Mall and through Admiralty Arch, and then up a short flight of steps to the Square.
Sadly, it was the Admiral's final victory: he was mortally wounded during the battle, and died the same day. He was brought back to the UK and given a State funeral, and was buried in London's St Paul's Cathedral.
Trafalgar Square's focal point is the Lord Nelson Column, in the center (left photo). It displays friezes of four of Nelson's most notable victories: Cape St Vincent, The Nile, Copenhagen and Trafalgar. At the very top is a statue of the Admiral himself, looking out over Whitehall. The Column itself was built between 1840 and 1843, to commemorate Lord Nelson's death at Trafalgar.
For myself, I think these lions look quite magnificent!
Trafalgar Square has been the site of moments of national rejoicing, and national sorrow, in Britain. It was the site of joyous V-E Day celebrations during the Second World War, and on 6 July 2005, when London was awarded the 2012 Summer Olympic Games. And it also held a mournful gathering a few days later, after the 7 July terrorist transit bombings in London. So it's seen its share of laughter and tears.
One thing I just discovered: if the Nazis had successfully invaded Britain in Operation Sealion in 1940, Adolf Hitler would have dismantled Lord Nelson's Column, and moved it to Berlin, as a war trophy! Good thing that didn't happen. It would have made the British people even more eager to defy the Nazis.
One thing I just discovered: if the Nazis had successfully invaded Britain in Operation Sealion in 1940, Adolf Hitler would have dismantled Lord Nelson's Column, and moved it to Berlin, as a war trophy! Good thing that didn't happen. It would have made the British people even more eager to defy the Nazis.
There are so many sights to see around Trafalgar Square: there is the National Gallery of London, the Church of St Martin-in-the-Fields, its two fountains--and the 'Fourth Plinth". About the last-named sight: there are four statues on plinths flanking the Square. Three of them are currently 'occupied': one is an equestrian statue of King George IV. But this 'Fourth" was supposed to hold an equestrian statue of its own, but that didn't happen. So in 1998, the Royal Society of Arts came up with "The Fourth Plinth Project", where local artists would display their works on the empty plinth for a period of time.
And at this time, there was placed a most appropriate 'work of art' for the Square (photo left): it is Lord Nelson's Trafalgar flagship HMS Victory--and she's encased in a glass bottle, like a model ship! She's got one little detail that Lord Nelson could never have foreseen: her sails are made of African-patterned cloth.
I had to laugh, and wonder what Lord Nelson would think of this. I would hope he wouldn't have let loose a barrage of naval oaths....
I had to laugh, and wonder what Lord Nelson would think of this. I would hope he wouldn't have let loose a barrage of naval oaths....
The church of St Martin-in-the-Fields (photo right) is an Anglican church that is on the northeast corner of Trafalgar Square. A church by that name (named for its patron saint, St Martin of Tours, in France) has been on this site since at least 1222. The current building was designed by James Gibbs, and erected in 1721.
It is also home to the world-famous Academy of St Martin-in-the-Fields chamber orchestra, founded in 1959 by conductor and violinist Sir Neville Marriner.
It is also home to the world-famous Academy of St Martin-in-the-Fields chamber orchestra, founded in 1959 by conductor and violinist Sir Neville Marriner.
The National Gallery of London is located on the back side of Trafalgar Square, and overlooks the Square, and Whitehall. It is home to a collection of over 2300 works of art, from the mid-13th century to 1900. Its current building was designed by architect William Willkins, and was constructed between 1832 and 1838. The front facade has pretty much stayed the same since then. But its interior gallery space has been expanded in various stages throughout its history.
This Remembrance Sunday, I would be visiting the National Gallery (photo left) in the company of my British friend Myles and his young daughter Megan. They were coming from Surrey, the southern county closest to London.
It was now close to 1 pm, and the rain was still coming down. The wind also began to pick up a little, and I was becoming chilled to the bone, as I stood close to Lord Nelson's Column. I did receive a text-message from Myles, stating that he and Megan would be arriving at Waterloo Station shortly.
I decided to get out of the rain, if only for a few minutes, so I ducked into a nearby bookshop: Weatherstone's, which faced Trafalgar Square. I'm glad I did stop in: it was a paradise for the book-lover in me! I immediately went to the History section downstairs, and found a copy of Sir Martin Gilbert's The Holocaust: the Jewish Tragedy. I bought that, and The Wicked Wit of Winston Churchill, a collection of some of Churchill's most famous humorous stories and quotes.
I also bought two more books in British author Susan Howatch's Church of England/St Benet's series of novels: Glittering Images and The High Flyer, respectively. These two series of novels are among my favorites; I've read all of them, though not in the order in which they were written!
I decided to get out of the rain, if only for a few minutes, so I ducked into a nearby bookshop: Weatherstone's, which faced Trafalgar Square. I'm glad I did stop in: it was a paradise for the book-lover in me! I immediately went to the History section downstairs, and found a copy of Sir Martin Gilbert's The Holocaust: the Jewish Tragedy. I bought that, and The Wicked Wit of Winston Churchill, a collection of some of Churchill's most famous humorous stories and quotes.
I also bought two more books in British author Susan Howatch's Church of England/St Benet's series of novels: Glittering Images and The High Flyer, respectively. These two series of novels are among my favorites; I've read all of them, though not in the order in which they were written!
Carrying my purchases, I popped out of Weatherstone's, and went back over to Lord Nelson's Column to wait for Myles and Megan. Sure enough: just after 2 pm, they arrived: Myles hugged me in greeting, and introduced me to his young daughter Megan, and I introduced myself to her. Myles and I have been email correspondents for just over ten years, and I was so glad to finally meet him in person! The three of us then walked across the wet Square to our destination: the National Gallery of London.
The Gallery is laid out in some of the most gorgeous rooms I've ever seen: high ceilings, beautiful woodwork round the doors, and perfect lighting effects. We found works by masters such as Leonardo da Vinci, Vincent Van Gogh, Titian, Peter Paul Rubens, Rembrandt, and most of the French Impressionists, such as Claude Monet and Edouard Manet. We also saw English works by John Constable, Turner, and Sir Thomas Gainsborough--and King Henry VIII's favorite painter, Hans Holbein the Younger.
One of Holbein's works was of the teenage Princess Christina of Denmark, (photo left) painted in 1538, during the time Henry was looking for his fourth wife. She turned the King down, saying "If I had two heads, one would be at the King of England's disposal"! Christina was definitely a smart girl!!
The Princess was quite lovely, dressed in a long black gown, with a black cap covering her head.
One of the most moving works we saw was one by the 18th-century French artist Hippolyte (Paul) Delaroche, depicting the moment before the execution of Lady Jane Grey at the Tower of London on 12 February 1554 (photo right): Lady Jane is blindfolded, and is searching frantically for the block, on which she is to lay her head; a sorrowful clergyman is guiding her gently there, as the sad Executioner and Lady Jane's grieving ladies look on. It is a massive work, and there was quite a crowd looking at it.
The two photos of the aforementioned works are not my own. Visitors could not take photographs inside the National Gallery, so I have to be content with photos from the Internet.
One of the British works I particularly liked was one painted by Constable of Salisbury Cathedral: somehow, the artist managed to depict a perfect rainbow above the cathedral. Whomever put these displays together knew how to delight and overwhelm the visitor at the same time!
The two photos of the aforementioned works are not my own. Visitors could not take photographs inside the National Gallery, so I have to be content with photos from the Internet.
One of the British works I particularly liked was one painted by Constable of Salisbury Cathedral: somehow, the artist managed to depict a perfect rainbow above the cathedral. Whomever put these displays together knew how to delight and overwhelm the visitor at the same time!
We were there about a half-hour, when Megan said she was hungry, so we trooped downstairs to the self-service Cafeteria for a little lunch. Myles bought Megan a nut-less cake and fruit cup for himself, and I selected a tomato-mozzarella-basil sandwich. Myles graciously paid for all three of us.
We managed to find a place in the very-crowded eating area, and had an opportunity to chat. Myles gave me a copy of the program from the Guildford Opera Company's production of Gaetano Donizetti's Lucia di Lammermoor, in which he played the role of Normano, the Captain of the Guard. Myles is a very talented singer and actor; he's performed in local repertory productions of musicals like Guys and Dolls and the rock opera Jesus Christ Superstar.
We managed to find a place in the very-crowded eating area, and had an opportunity to chat. Myles gave me a copy of the program from the Guildford Opera Company's production of Gaetano Donizetti's Lucia di Lammermoor, in which he played the role of Normano, the Captain of the Guard. Myles is a very talented singer and actor; he's performed in local repertory productions of musicals like Guys and Dolls and the rock opera Jesus Christ Superstar.
All too soon, we were finished with lunch, and we made our way back to the galleries, to see more paintings. On the way upstairs, Myles told me his father was pleased I knew of Gonville & Caius, one of the colleges at the University of Cambridge. It seems the elder Mr. Harfield is a Gonville & Caius man. This college figures prominently in one of my favorite films, Chariots of Fire; one of the main characters, Olympic champion Harold Abrahams, is a Gonville & Caius man.
When we got back into Trafalgar Square at Lord Nelson's Column, I hugged Megan goodbye, and wished her a good week at school; I then hugged Myles, and thanked him for lunch, and for the company at the National Gallery. And then they were off, back to Waterloo Station, and home.
It was around 4 or so, and the rain had finally stopped--mercifully. But the streets of London were still full of people, as I made my way back along Whitehall, to Westminster. Whitehall was now open to vehicular traffic; it had been closed during the ceremony at The Cenotaph, and the Royal British Legion March-Past earlier in the day.
Many passers-by stopped along the metal fence surrounding The Cenotaph, to read the inscriptions on the cards on the wreaths, or to look for a specific wreath. The crowd was quiet and dignified: no shouting or even laughing. It was a very moving thing to see.
I was really amazed at the number of passers-by, at this time of the evening. I suppose that a major city like London never really 'sleeps'. There is always something going on.
But on this particular evening, there was still a solemnity in the air: that this was not supposed to be 'just any Sunday' evening in London. It was a day to reflect, and to remember, all those Britons who had given their lives in war; or, as President Lincoln said so perfectly in the Gettysburg Address: 'the last full measure of devotion.'
I left The Cenotaph, and arrived at Parliament Square, and took some photos of the illuminated Houses of Parliament. One came out particularly well. I was quite surprised to see this photo (photo right) : a moonrise behind the floodlit St Stephen's Tower.
I then turned near Westminster Abbey, up an equally busy Victoria Street into a quieter Buckingham Gate, and the hotel. I soon 'crashed' for the evening, and slept like a rock: a perfect ending to a really memorable, and very moving, Remembrance Sunday.
I then turned near Westminster Abbey, up an equally busy Victoria Street into a quieter Buckingham Gate, and the hotel. I soon 'crashed' for the evening, and slept like a rock: a perfect ending to a really memorable, and very moving, Remembrance Sunday.
