Day Eighteen: Thursday, 18 November 2010: Going Home

My last day in the UK began in the rain, but ended with sunshine.

I showered and dressed, and scoured my room to make sure everything was packed and ready to go.   Satisfied that this was the case, I left my room with my baggage, and headed to the lift to the Main Lobby.  I paid what was left on my bill, and bid the brilliant staff at the Crowne Plaza St James a fond 'au revoir' (or however it is said by the British!).   I assured them that I would return to stay with them again; the whole staff, from desk people to Spa 51 and bell-men, were incredible.   A bell-person assisted me with the baggage to the Reception Desk, and I gave him a good tip for the service.   The Concierge called a taxi for me, and the bell-person got me and my baggage in the taxi safely.   I thanked the bell-person, and waved 'au revoir'.

After telling the cab driver I needed to go to London Paddington station, we were off; at the end of Buckingham Palace Road, we passed in front of the Palace, and I waved a silent 'Good Morning' to the Royals: especially to Prince William and Kate Middleton.   I took one last look at sights like the Wellington Arch, Marble Arch, Oxford Street and Hyde Park, as we made our way through London's rush hour.   Soon, we arrived at London Paddington station, where the driver (who called me "Luv" a couple of times!) helped me and the baggage out.   I gave him a huge tip; he said it was 'too much' and asked 'Are you sure?'   I told him he deserved it, for getting me safely to the station.   He smiled broadly and said 'Thank you!'   He also hoped more Americans like me would visit the UK, if all of them would give such generous tips.  I sure hope I made his day.

Once inside London Paddington, I had to get my Heathrow Express train ticket at a self-service kiosk.  With a little assistance from another American traveler, I managed to get my ticket, and then followed a clearly-marked path on the floor to the Heathrow Express train platform.   I got on a train for Terminal One--but not before taking quick photos of the MIND THE GAP warning (photos left and below right) on the platform outside the door.  Those were the last photos I took while on this trip.   Soon, we were off for Heathrow Airport.

The ride only took a few minutes.   I sat down near the doorway, and watched London go by.   As I did, the rain stopped, and the sun broke through.   Most riders were quiet, reading newspapers or watching the news on the overhead TVs.  I kept my bags close at hand, and didn't say much of anything.   Before long, we reached Terminal One at Heathrow; I got off the train, walked down a long corridor, up two escalators, and then into the terminal.   I stopped at a bank to change my remaining British Pounds for US dollars (remarkably, I was leaving with money to spare!), and then looked out for the US Airways check-in.   It was another exercise in frustration, with those self-service check-in kiosks like I had in Syracuse.  But I managed to find a human staffer, who directed me where to go.  In this Security area, I was asked if I packed my bags myself (yes), and did I accept a parcel from anyone in the airport (no).  This person was very nice.  But she almost put a sticker on my checked-in bag for Fort Worth, Texas!!!  Thankfully, I caught it in time, and showed her the error; she changed it to Philadelphia.   I would pick up this bag in Philadelphia, in order to go through US Customs.

Next came the various layers of Security, and the UK Border check: time to strip off coat, camera case, and bags, and put them on the conveyor belt for X-ray.   Thank heavens it wasn't crazy-busy yet, but you still have to be on the ball to get all this stuff through the machine!   The coat, camera bag and gift bag came through just fine; my backpack was checked separately by a very kind lady, who was wearing a 'Help For Heroes' lanyard round her neck.   I noticed it, and told her what a great UK military support group it is.  And she told me she has a son in the British Army, and he was on leave from Afghanistan now; however, he would be returning there soon.   I wished her and her son well, and gathered my stuff for the walk to the Departures area.

When I arrived in the Departures area, I was most pleasantly surprised: there were many upscale shops selling clothes, cosmetics, and food, for starters.   And to top it all off: there were nice clean W.C.'s close by   I was almost tempted to buy some expensive chocolate!   Instead, I bought a turkey-and-cranberries sandwich, with orange juice to wash it down.   This was my breakfast, as I didn't have time to get anything to eat in London.   I sat down near the food area and munched, and watched checked-in passengers going to and fro.  The food was very good, and it helped settle my growling stomach.   I also stopped at a nearby Boots chemist shop, and bought some anti-shine ointment for my face.  I tried it in the W.C., and it really felt nice and cool.

The time soon came for me to go find the Departure Gate for my flight to Philadelphia.   Once again, it was another really long walk: more long corridors and moving sidewalks to navigate.   It felt like I was walking to the other side of the world--plus my souvenir bag and backpack felt heavier than ever.  But eventually I found the gate, and checked in.  It was fairly quiet at first, but little by little, more passengers began to arrive.

Eventually, my seating 'zone' was called (the last one to be called), and I followed the herd to the plane; I found my window seat quickly, and put my souvenir bag and coat up in the overhead compartment, and the backpack beneath the seat.   My seatmate, an older American woman, wasn't very talkative.  But I didn't mind much.   I had a lot to reflect on about my UK/Europe journey, and I didn't feel much like chattering.   It was nice to be going home to the USA.  But I knew I would be missing the UK and Belgium, and all the people I had met along the way.

As the plane lifted off the runway, I gazed out the window at the scene below: the far outskirts of London, and the green countryside--and remembered the day I arrived in England, and how excited I was, pointing out famous London landmarks.   This time, my seat faced the southern side of London's suburbs: lots of council flats and twisting roads, and then the rolling and green countryside.   Soon, we were high above the clouds, but I could still see the UK coastline, until we were finally over the Atlantic Ocean.  I tried to settle down to sleep, but it's hard to get comfortable in a narrow coach seat, with little front leg room.   My feet and legs started feeling 'twitchy', from being confined.  I envied those in Business or First Class; at least they could stretch out their legs!

About an hour or so into the flight, the cabin crew had us shut the window shades, so passengers could sleep.  I only dozed for short periods; others were fast asleep, or listening to their iPods or watching movies on their little 'private' screens.   You have to pay for that privilege now, which is ridiculous.   Instead, I had some fun watching a GPS screen you could tune into, showing the flight plan of the plane.  It showed the locations of ocean 'banks'--and wreck sites of famous ships like RMS Titanic in April 1912, RMS Lusitania in May 1915--and even CSS Alabama in June 1864!   Granted, it was a bit bizarre to be seeing shipwreck sites pinpointed on a flight map.   But it sure was better than seeing nothing.

Lunch was provided about halfway across the Atlantic.   It was enough to keep the 'growlies' from getting too bad.   I just hoped my bladder would hold out until we got to Philadelphia....!   I didn't feel like waiting in line for the airline toilets.   Not much conversation was held between me and my seatmate.   She was sleeping most of the time.   I contented myself with watching the GPS map, and counting the miles as we got closer to the North American continent.   And it seemed to take FOREVER to get there!

Soon, however, I noticed we were crossing over land; according to the map, we were over Eastern Canada: Nova Scotia (where I waved a silent 'hello' to my friend David in Halifax) and New Brunswick.  And then we flew parallel to the coast of Maine, one of my favorite US states to visit.  Then we passed over Cape Cod, and back out over the Atlantic, until we reached the New Jersey shoreline.   No one was on the beach (it was still sunny, but I imagined it was too cold to be out walking) as we flew inland.  Soon we were approaching the Philadelphia airport; as we came in, I saw both Lincoln Financial Field (home of the NFL's Philadelphia Eagles) and Wells Fargo Center (home of the NBA's Philadelphia 76ers and the NHL's Philadelphia Flyers), and the skyline of downtown Philadelphia.  It was hard to believe I was almost back on US soil.

The flight pretty much landed on time; it was still daylight outside.   But I now faced yet another long walk inside the terminal--this time, to go through US Customs.   The lines for Customs were full; I don't know if we were the only passengers going through.   As we stood in line, a Customs staffer came alongside, with her contraband-sniffing beagle.   The dog trotted alongside us and sniffed all our bags, in search of drugs, weapons, illegal fruit or veggies, etc..   It was a great temptation to pat this little fellow and fuss over it.   But the beagle was 'on duty', and not to be distracted.   He sure was cute.

When I got to the Customs table, I handed the staffer the Customs forms I filled out on the plane, stating what I had bought in the UK and Europe, and how much it cost.   Unfortunately, everything I'd bought was in either British Pounds or Euros, and I didn't know what it translated to in US dollars.   In all, I filled out five US Customs forms.   And that irritated the staffer very much, because HE had to do the US dollar conversion.   I bet I made his day (NOT!).   Thankfully, I was able to get through Customs and go to Baggage Claim; I found my suitcase in the Baggage Claim fairly quickly, and then got in yet another line for Security: time to take off the coats, camera bags and backpacks again.  And let's not forget the shoes.....   The lines moved not fast, but not too slow.   But you still have to be on the ball to get everything off that's going into the X-ray machine, and keep moving forward.   I got through the metal detector just fine, and was able to grab my stuff and move on.  I kept hoping my big suitcase and I would find each other in Syracuse....

With boarding pass in hand, I walked through the crowds, to find the shuttle bus that would take me to the domestic US Airways terminal.   It came along quickly, and I got aboard.   It was dark by now, as the driver skillfully made his way to the right terminal.   I got off and found the right gate for my flight to Syracuse...after yet another long trudge.   I sure was getting my exercise today!   I gratefully sat down in the waiting area---and discovered my flight home was being delayed.   JOY....!   I was running on adrenaline and managing to stay awake.   But I knew that, eventually, I would crash with exhaustion.  I found my US mobile phone and called my sister Joanne, to tell her the flight was delayed, but not for a long delay.

Sitting in that waiting area, I realized I was back in the Land of the Rude American.   Three men were seated near me talking very loudly amongst themselves, and a businesswoman on a Bluetooth device and a laptop computer was yapping on and on, like she was talking to herself.   I like technology as much as most people.   But too many have no sense of privacy anymore; it's irritating being in earshot of someone else's business.   I tried my darndest to shut it out mentally.

At long last: the plane for Syracuse arrived.   My seat was way in the back, right by the toilets (lovely).  At least it was a window seat, so I could see the sparkling lights in the darkness below me.   It was a short flight: just enough time to have a drink and some snacks.   Before I knew it, we were landing in Syracuse; I collected my carry-on stuff and got off the plane, and into a nearly-silent terminal.   Soon, I saw my sister Joanne, and I almost ran to embrace her.   She was happy to have me home.   Once again, my suitcase arrived in rapid time at Baggage Claim, and off we went to the Parking Garage, where we put my bags in Joanne's car, and she drove me home.   I immediately started chattering on about the trip.

Soon, I was back home at my apartment.   We decided to leave the heavy suitcase at the bottom of the inside stairs for the night; it was too much to drag upstairs.   Anyway, my brain was becoming much too fuzzy to think straight; all I wanted was a shower and to go to bed.   I bid Joanne good night, and thanked her for the transport from the airport, and off I went to meet The Sandman.   I would write my reflections about my journey on the morrow in my diary.

Day Seventeen: Wednesday 17 November 2010, Part Two

To continue on my last full day in London: a visit to the Tower of London.

When I completed my tour of the Churchill War Rooms, I handed back my 'mobile guide', and stopped at the Gift Shop to buy a DVD of Churchill's State Funeral in 1965.   I then left the Museum, and walked up the Clive Steps to King Charles Street, and then into Whitehall to take the Tube to the Tower.   I wrongly thought I was a "Tube Veteran" by now, finding my way to the correct train.   But I almost went west instead of east!   Thankfully, I discovered my error in time, and found the right one, and climbed aboard.  I used my Oyster Card, which saved me buying an individual ticket.   It's a godsend!

The trip didn't take long to do.   But there sure was an awful lot of stair-climbing and path-walking out of the station; it's some way to get some exercise!!   This particular station looked fairly new: a long paved walk up and down, just to see where to get an entrance ticket to the Tower.  I paid my fee, and headed towards the Tower entrance.   Nearby, I noticed a lot of construction, or restoration work, going on next to the Tower's walls.   Not sure exactly what was going on.

Before I entered the Tower proper, I took a glance at its surroundings; nearby is The City, which is London's financial district, and the oldest part of London itself.  It's home to many bank headquarters and related businesses.

And some of the newer high-rise buildings have some freaky architecture: one of the most notable, at 30 St Mary Axe, is shaped like a pickle: hence, most Londoners  call it "The Gherkin".   To me, it does look something like a pickle.   Or perhaps a blimp sitting on its tail, or a rocket....(photo left)

I entered the Tower at the Byward Tower, (photo right) via a bridge over the old moat.   The path was made of cobblestones, so I had to walk a bit gingerly.   There was a tour about to start that would take visitors on a walk atop the walls, but I decided against it, because of all the stair-climbing.   I contented myself with snapping photos of the various towers: the Wakefield Tower, and the infamous "Bloody Tower": so-called because it is the traditional site of the murder of the "Princes in the Tower": young Edward V and his brother Richard, Duke of York.

I also stopped at "Traitors' Gate": the former water gate entrance (photo left) used for such famous prisoners as Queen Anne Boleyn, Queen Katherine Howard, Sir Thomas More, and Princess Elizabeth (the future Queen Elizabeth I).   It was dry beneath the Gate now; visitors toss coins onto the ground below, and they are collected and used for charitable purposes.   Today, a man was there collecting for the Royal British Legion's "Poppy Appeal", to aid UK soldiers and their families.

The Tower of London is not a 'tower' in the usual sense of the word: a single structure.   It's actually a large complex of buildings, with different purposes used for each.   It was once a prison, of course.   But it was also a royal palace, an armory, home to the Royal Mint, a public records office, and home to the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom.   The oldest part of the Tower is in its center: the White Tower.

The White Tower (photo right) was begun by William the Conqueror, in 1078.   The irony is, the White Tower was built not only to protect London from outside invaders: it also protected the Norman invaders from the people of the City of London!   It was built of Caen stone, imported from Normandy, in France.   Its construction was completed in 1087, during the reigns of William's sons William Rufus and Henry I.

During my visit, I noticed that part of the White Tower was covered by scaffolding and plastic sheeting: it was undergoing a major restoration project, so I couldn't get full photos of the White Tower without getting the modern structures too.  I decided not to take a tour inside the White Tower.  Instead, I just walked round the exterior.

 Near the walls I saw several huge enclosures built for the famous "Tower ravens": huge, black birds indeed (photo left)!   There were hordes of schoolchildren visiting the Tower this day, and they were clamoring to get photos, or just to look, at these big birds.   There were three hanging about their enclosures: six in all live within the Tower precincts.

Not far from the White Tower is the Waterloo Barracks: the home of the British Crown Jewels--and the most secure room in the whole UK!   I definitely wanted to see the Crown Jewels for myself, so I made my way inside.

First, the visitor enters a huge room on the Barracks' ground floor, where a film on the history of the Crown Jewels plays daily.  Included were clips of the coronations of both King George VI and his daughter, Queen Elizabeth II, and explanations of the usages of the Royal regalia.   Visitors were encouraged to keep moving by plainclothes security staff.   Some were dressed as Yeoman Warders, or "Beefeaters": the guards within the Tower precincts.

Next, I followed the crowd into the room where the Crown Jewels are kept, behind unbreakable glass.  The Crown Jewels have been kept in the Waterloo Barracks (photo right) since 1994; before that, they were kept in the basement of the Barracks beginning in 1967.

One interesting innovation is in this room: two very slow-moving 'sidewalks'--like the ones you use in major airport terminals--glide on either side of the displays.   They keep visitors from lingering too long in front of the Crown Jewels!

I am including a few Web-based photos of some of the Crown Jewels, for illustrative purposes only.  Visitors are not allowed to take their own photos of the Crown Jewels, for security reasons.

I saw the Imperial State Crown, (photo left) which is mainly used now by The Queen at the State Opening of Parliament.  It is also worn at the conclusion of the Coronation ceremony.   It contains such famous stones as 'The Black Prince's Ruby' (not a real ruby, but either a spinel or balas); the 'Stuart Sapphire'; the 'Cullinan II' or 'Second Star of Africa' diamond; four earrings that once belonged to Queen Elizabeth I; and 'St Edward's Sapphire', originally set in a ring that belonged to St Edward the Confessor.

Other crowns I saw included St Edward's Crown; this is only used at the moment of Coronation.  There was also a crown made for King George IV; Queen Victoria's Crown; the Crown of George, Prince of Wales; the Crown of Frederick, Prince of Wales; the Queen Consort Crowns of Queens Mary (wife of George V), Adelaide (wife of King William IV), Mary of Modena (wife of King James II), Queen Alexandra (wife of King Edward VII), and the Crown of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother (wife of King George VI).

Other State Crowns I saw were those for King George I; Queen Victoria's Small Diamond Crown (photo left); Victoria wore this tiny crown with a veil, after the death of her husband, Albert the Prince Consort   The Imperial Crown of India  was created for King George V when he and Queen Mary visited India in December 1911, for the Delhi Durbar.  The Crown Jewels are not allowed to leave the UK, so this crown had to be made for this occasion.

Besides the various crowns on display, I also saw several gorgeous rings, including 'The Sovereign's Ring', made for William IV's Coronation, made of rubies forming the Cross of St George on a blue sapphire;  the 'Queen Consort's Ring', made for Queen Adelaide, with a huge ruby surrounded by diamonds; and 'Queen Victoria's Ring': a smaller version of William IV's coronation ring.   This particular ring caused a bit of pain for Queen Victoria at her Coronation: it was made too small for her finger, and was forced on by the Archbishop of Canterbury!

Queen Victoria inherited all three of these rings, and bequeathed them to the Crown on her death.  The Sovereign's Ring has been used in every Coronation since 1902, and the Queen Consort's Ring has also been worn by Queen Consorts since that date.

There was also a magnificent display of Orbs and Sceptres.   The 'Sovereign's Orb' (photo right) is from 1661, and symbolizes the Christian world with a cross mounted on a globe, and its bands of jewels and pearls dividing it up to represent the three continents known in medieval Europe.  The Monarch receives it in the right hand at the Coronation, before it's placed on the High Altar.

There is also 'Queen Mary's Orb', made for the joint Coronation of William III and Mary II in 1689; Mary was the daughter of the exiled King James II.   The Sceptres included 'The Sovereign's Sceptre With Cross', 'The Sovereign's Sceptre With Dove', 'The Queen Consort's Sceptre With Cross', 'The Queen Consort's Ivory Rod With Dove', and 'Queen Mary's Sceptre With Dove'.

Not far from the Crowns was a large display case containing a beautiful gold ensemble: the Coronation Robes (photo left).   They were last worn by Queen Elizabeth II at her Coronation in 1953.

The outer robes are based on ancient Imperial vestments, and are woven from silk thread wound round with gold.  Over the monarch's linen shift is worn the Supertunica, a long coat made of cloth of gold, that was made for George V's Coronation in 1911.

Next comes the Stole, which is worn round the neck; the one in the display was made in 1953, and it bears both the emblems of the British Isles and symbolic plants of the Commonwealth.

Lastly, there's the Imperial Mantle, made in 1821 for King George IV's Coronation, and used by Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 for her Coronation.  It is covered with emblems of the-then newly created United Kingdom, along with imperial eagles.   All that stuff must weigh a ton when worn!

Lastly, there was a room filled with items used in the Coronation ceremony, the Coronation Feasts, and for Royal Christenings.   For the Coronation ceremony, there were several huge Altar Dishes, Communion Patens and Chalices: they are displayed on the High Altar at Westminster Abbey during the Coronation.   The biggest one of the lot was 'The Last Supper Altar Dish", made in 1664, showing a representation of The Last Supper in the center, and it weighs nearly 29 lbs.!

Among the more interesting (and rather bizarre!) items was the massive 'Wine Cistern', or cooler, made for King George IV's Coronation in 1821 (photo left): it's a riot of Rococo decoration, and can hold 144 bottles of wine inside.  It was later used as a vessel for hot punch, so it's also known as the 'Grand Punch Bowl'.

On one side is a carving of a Unicorn; the other has a Lion wearing a crown.   It weighs around 548 lbs.; how does one get this thing moved from place to place?   I bet more than a few Coronation Banquet guests were tottering about, after indulging in wine cooled in here!!

King George IV was the last British Sovereign to hold a Coronation Banquet.   Probably a good thing: the man ran up an awful lot of debts during his life--not to mention he had an overly-hearty appetite!

One can read all one wants about the Crown Jewels, and see photos of them in books.   But nothing beats seeing them in person, in all their sparkling, glowing splendor!!   I could not help but think of Prince William and Kate Middleton.   When William becomes King William V, he will wear the Imperial State Crown.  And when Kate becomes "Queen Kate", she'll wear the Queen Consort's Crown!  Awesome....!!!

If that wasn't enough to dazzle the mind: I also saw a big display case containing beautiful ornamental Maces; these are used by the Sergeants at Arms, or the Royal Bodyguard (photo right).   It is also used in the Houses of Parliament, as the symbol of Royal authority: there are three for the House of Lords, and one for the House of Commons.

The Mace precedes the arrival and departure of the Speaker of the House of Commons, and neither House can lawfully meet without the Mace being present.   I've seen it numerous times during 'Prime Minister's Questions' in the Commons.

Nothing beats seeing the British Crown Jewels in person.   One can see them in dozens of photo books, or travel guides.   But those mere photos pale in comparison to seeing the 'real thing'!

SO--after picking my jaw up off the floor, I found my way out of the Waterloo Barracks, and walked to the nearby Chapel Royal of St Peter-ad-Vincula (photo left).   It is the Tower of London's church, and contains the bodies of many of the famous executed prisoners of the Tower: among those buried in the church's vault are Queens Anne Boleyn and Katherine Howard, Sir Thomas More (photo below right) (minus his head!), the 'Nine Days' Queen' Lady Jane Grey and her husband Lord Guildford Dudley, George Boleyn, Viscount Rochford (Anne's brother) and his wife Jane, Lady Rochford, John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester-- just to name a few.

No photography was allowed in the church, and visitors were strongly encouraged to remain quiet.   I thought that was good: St Peter-ad-Vincula is a place for quiet reflection and prayer, to remember those who are buried in the crypt below.  It is a very intimate setting for Anglican services too.   What sad history has been witnessed by this little church....

Not far from the church is Tower Green: the site of many executions of prisoners from the Tower.   Only the most prominent of them were executed here; most met their deaths on Tower Hill, outside the walls.

In place of the scaffold stands a modern Plexiglass sculpture (photo left) , shaped like an open flower: in the center sits what looks like a pillow (perhaps one where a severed head landed?).   Engraved round the 'flower' were the names and execution dates of those who died here: I saw names such as Anne Boleyn, Katherine Howard, and Sir Thomas More.   An interesting sculpture, I thought: not bad for a modern work of art.

Across Tower Green were stucco-and-wood-fronted buildings. I believe this was the site of the 'Queen's Quarters', when the Tower was used as a Royal residence.  They are now the homes of Tower staff (photo right).

I think the Governor of the Tower lives here; I saw a bearskin hat-wearing Guard on duty outside his door.  The Governor is usually a retired high-ranking military member; one past Governor was Field Marshal Alexander, also known as Earl Alexander of Tunis, from the Second World War).   I wonder what these quarters look like inside?

Also near Tower Green lurked three of the Tower Ravens, strutting about on the grass .   The schoolchildren were attempting to feed them with French fries from one of the nearby restaurants within the Tower (more like cafes, actually).   When the ravens got close to the kids, the latter squealed with fright and backed away.

One of the really big ravens had ruffled feathers (photo left), and looked a bit grumpy to boot.  If you looked close enough (or dared to!), you could see where the wings were clipped.  There is an old legend that says if the ravens leave the Tower, the kingdom will fall.   So, to make sure that doesn't happen, all the ravens' wings are clipped.

It was really cool seeing these huge birds in person.   Seeing them made me want to quote the famous line from Edgar Allan Poe's poem The Raven: 'Quoth the Raven: NEVERMORE!"

By now, my poor feet were starting to throb, even though I had sat down for a few minutes in St Peter-ad-Vincula.   My final stop within the Tower precincts was the 'Bloody Tower'.

I could have taken the spiral staircase up into the tower itself, but decided instead to get a look at the workings of the tower's Portcullis: a nasty-looking spiked gate held in place by heavy rope, round a wooden spool.   A crank was used to lower the Portcullis in case of threats of attack.   Across from that was a large furnished room with a fireplace (photo above right).   This room was used by Sir Walter Raleigh, when he was a prisoner in the Tower.

Raleigh's family was allowed to join him here, oddly enough.   But in the end, Sir Walter still lost his head on Tower Green.

As I left the Tower precincts proper, I snapped a few more photos of the Thames-side view of Traitor's Gate (photo left), and St Thomas' Tower above the Gate, before calling it a day.

It's really incredible, visiting a site that has so much tragic history.  The phrase 'to the Tower!' sparked a lot of fear, for many centuries.   Even as a museum, the Tower is a spooky place.   And it has more than its share of wandering ghosts--so I am told!

Once outside the Tower itself, I walked slowly to the River Thames side of the Tower, and took several photos of the nearby Tower Bridge (photo right).   It's another of London's iconic sights, and is sometimes confused with the even more famous London Bridge.   It's called 'Tower Bridge' because of its proximity to the Tower of London, and was opened in June 1894 by Edward Prince of Wales, and his wife Alexandra, Princess of Wales: the future King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra.

Upstream from Tower Bridge, moored on the south side of the River Thames is HMS Belfast, (photo left) a Second World War light cruiser that's been turned into a museum operated by the Imperial War Museum.   She was built in 1939, and participated in the Arctic supply convoys to the Soviet Union and in Operation Overlord on D-Day, 6 June 1944.   She also saw action during the Korean War.   


HMS Belfast was saved from the scrap heap in 1971, and was restored and opened to the public in July 1971.   In 1978, she became a branch of the Imperial War Museum.

While walking along Tower Wharf and taking photos, I noticed how cold it was: the wind was whipping off the gray Thames, under equally gray skies.   After taking a few more photos of the exterior Tower walls, I walked back to the Visitor Center and stopped at a fish-and-chips restaurant for lunch, and to change a little money.

After lunch, I stopped at the Gift Shop to buy some last-minute presents.  I bought a "Winston Bulldog" stuffed toy, drink coasters with portraits of Henry VIII's Six Wives--and a collection of scented bar soap, in boxes showing portraits of both King Henry (photo left) and all his wives.   I bought the last-named gift for my sister Joanne at home.   And all of these gifts were placed in a Tower of London canvas bag!

I paid for my gifts and left the Shop.  Of course, as I was buying more stuff, I didn't even take into consideration how I was going to pack it all!

Before leaving the Tower of London for the last time, I took a couple more photos, including one of "The Gherkin", standing above the more historic buildings in London (photo below right).

I also made one more call on my UK mobile phone to my friend  Sir Martin Gilbert , in hopes of chatting with him before I left for the US.  I only got his voice-mail, so I left a message, and then retraced my steps  back to the Tower Hill Tube station.

As a footnote to that call, Sir Martin and I weren't able to make telephone connections before I left London.   But we did make email connection after my return to the States.

Before too long, an eastbound train showed up, and I got on for the short ride back to Westminster.  I got off the Tube at Westminster Bridge station, and discovered I was just across from Big Ben, and the Houses of Parliament.   I decided to go back down Whitehall, and say 'farewell' to the horses at Horse Guards, and to The Cenotaph.   I did take one last look at the wreaths laid on Remembrance Sunday round The Cenotaph.   But I never made it to Horse Guards.

Across Whitehall, I noticed a small crowd forming near the fence at Downing Street, so I crossed over to see what was going on.  And I noticed a large group of well-dressed people waiting to be admitted through the gate at Downing Street.   I asked a woman in line what was up, and she told me that a group of school headmasters were invited to meet with Prime Minister David Cameron at No. 10 Downing Street, to discuss Education in difficult economic times.   She told me her husband was one of those being admitted.

But as we stood there, I heard loud whistles and banging drums coming closer up Whitehall, and towards Downing Street.  As the sounds got closer, I noticed a number of colorful banners being held above the crowd: they were from the London Fire Brigade.   And the marchers were protesting upcoming Government budget cuts.   Many of the Brigade members wore their 'working' uniforms (photo left).

The marchers slowed down as they got close to Downing Street, and they continued banging their drums, and they also started chanting.   They began to spill over onto the sidewalks--and I then figured it was time to get out of the way, before I got caught up in the demonstration!   While it was a peaceful protest, one never knew if it might get out of hand--so I made my way along the sidewalk to King Charles Street, and down the Clive Steps--into the peace of St James Park.

The noise from the Fire Brigades' demonstration faded as I walked through the Park, and headed for my hotel; I did stop briefly for a few last photos of the bird life in the Park--including a scene that looked like Alfred Hitchcock's film The Birds: when a visitor threw bread onto the grass near the water, a huge flock of seagulls and ducks swarmed over the stuff, squawking and flapping like mad (photo left).  It was fun to watch.

When I returned to the hotel, I stopped long enough to drop my stuff off and clean up a bit.  For supper, I thought about going to an 'authentic' British pub: the 'Prince Albert', on the corner of Buckingham Gate and Victoria Street, just a few steps from my hotel.   It's a very historic pub, and one frequented by MPs and other politicians, since it's a couple of blocks from the Houses of Parliament and Whitehall.

When I did go in, the bar area was crowded with people, but I went upstairs to the main Dining Room--and discovered it didn't open until 5 pm!   Flushed with embarrassment, I scampered downstairs and out the door--and decided instead to order supper from Pret A Manger across the road.  It was just as well: Pret's food was awesome.   And it was a bargain for the money!

I saved the most onerous task of the night for last: PACKING UP.   It took three attempts to get most of my stuff inside the suitcase!   I ended up stuffing my backpack with small gifts, and carrying my Tower of London bag with my gifts from there.   So I definitely had my hands full, getting ready to leave for the USA the next day.

I went to bed with a mind full of all the things I did, the places I saw, and the people I met, during my stay in the UK and in Belgium.   I sure didn't want to leave....

Day Seventeen: Wednesday, 17 November 2010, Part One

Well, here it was: my last full day in the UK.   I got up early, to make the most of my remaining hours in London.

 I decided to attend one more Communion Service at Westminster Abbey at 8 am, so I stopped at the Pret A Manger shop on Victoria Street (photo left), and feasted on yogurt with berries, orange juice and fruit cup.  It was all very tasty, and filling--and the price is right!   If you enjoy natural and local food without additives and preservatives, Pret is for you.   And everything is freshly prepared, every day.

Back out on Victoria Street, I made my way to the Abbey, and entered the West Door.  I inquired where today's Communion Service was being held, and a staff member motioned me to follow him.   I threw another silent kiss to the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior, as I walked through the silent Abbey--and discovered that today's Communion Service was being held in the Lady Chapel within the awesomely beautiful Henry VII Chapel (photo right). I was the first one to arrive, and took the opportunity to sneak behind the tombs of King Henry VII and his Queen, Elizabeth of York, and pause before the RAF Chapel.

Returning to my seat, the Service began shortly thereafter.   There were three other participants and me, plus the priest and his assistant.   Halfway through, two more people showed up.   I forgot to pick up a Service leaflet at the Chapel door, so I was unable to participate fully in the prayers.   But I do remember the priest praying for the Royal Family--and he included Prince William and his fiancee Catherine Middleton, which made me smile.   I added a silent, but hearty, AMEN to that.

When it came time to receive the elements, I noticed there were kneelers set before the Lady Chapel altar, so I followed my fellow worshipers and knelt down.   When I received the bread and wine, I still felt that sense of peace I'd had in the previous two Communion Services--even though I could hear the rush-hour traffic outside, along with Big Ben's chimes.

At the end of the Service, I took one last lingering glance at the Henry VII Chapel, and stepped out into the Abbey itself.   I chatted with the priest, who said to me: "Good to see you again."   When I looked at him again, I realized it was Nick, the priest from the first Communion Service at St Faith's Chapel!   It was a nice surprise.   I thanked Nick again for the Service, and told him it was my last full day in the UK, and how sad I was to be leaving.   But Nick spread his arms out and said, "You can take us with you---you're a part of it (meaning the Abbey)!"  I never considered that before.

Nick wished me a safe journey back to the States, and I slowly made my way back to the West Door.   But not before stopping to light a candle and pray for Prince William and Kate--and to say goodbye to the Unknown Warrior, and to the Remember Winston Churchill marker.  

At the gate to the Abbey precincts, I met the staff member who led me to the Lady Chapel and told him how sad I was to be leaving the next day.   He, too, wished me a safe journey--and he took my hands in his and assured me I would be greeted warmly upon my return to the UK.  And a very kind black woman who was at the Communion Service asked me to give greetings from the UK to the people of the United States!

As I left the Abbey, I had an urgent need to visit the Loo, so I walked back to my hotel room.  Thankfully, it wasn't a long walk....  When I got to my room, I noticed that Housekeeping hadn't arrived yet; I did what needed to be done quickly, and went back out again, where I took a few photos of the outside courtyard of the hotel.

This time, however, I walked to the opposite end of Buckingham Gate, towards the Palace.   I took a few more photos of the Palace, and also noticed the satellite trucks from the major news organizations (I recognized NBC's by the peacock logo) parked just outside the Palace gates (photo right).  They were obviously hanging around for the latest developments on the Royal Engagement.  I also noticed a few extra tourists gazing through the fences outside the Palace.  Were they hoping for a glimpse of Kate Middleton and Prince William, perhaps?

I decided that my next stop of the day would be the Churchill War Rooms, on the other side of St James' Park.   I walked over by the lakes between the Palace and Horse Guards Parade, watching the wildlife that was hanging about: ducks, geese (photo left), a couple of swans, seagulls, squirrels--and the two pelicans that I'd noticed the day before.   It was a cold and windy November day, but I didn't mind the cold at all.

At the end of my leisurely walk through the park was the Churchill War Rooms.   This was where Prime Minister Winston Churchill and his Government sheltered during the worst days of The Blitz on London, in 1940 and 1941.  The Museum is run by the Imperial War Museum.   I paid my admission fee, picked up a Guidebook, and one of those self-guide mobiles like I had at the Abbey, and off I went.

It's difficult to describe the feeling one has, being underground like Mr Churchill, his wife Clementine, his staff, the Cabinet, and other military and civilian officials were in those dark days.   The rooms by and large are not spacious, so everyone was virtually on top of one another; life must have gotten testy at times.   And the lighting wasn't very bright, either.   And in those days, nearly everyone smoked, so the air quality must have been terrible--even with all the wall fans circulating the same air over and over again.   Plus: there was only a large slab of steel and concrete between the War Rooms' ceilings, and a direct hit by German bombs.

Still: it was safer to be here than at nearby 10 Downing Street.   Or at the Houses of Parliament: the Commons chamber was destroyed by a German bomb during The Blitz.

Mr Churchill really didn't like this underground shelter.   He only used it when the German bombing raids made meeting above ground too risky.   And he'd drive his security people (as well as Clementine!) nuts when he'd sometimes take visitors and go to the roof of the building above, to watch the air raids as they happened!   Poor Detective Thompson, his bodyguard.....I could see him having fits of fear, when Mr. Churchill did that!

The largest room by far was where the War Cabinet met (photo above left).  The room itself--as were most of the major rooms on the tour--was behind walls of Plexiglass.   But one could see where the Prime Minister, his Deputy PM, Clement Attlee, and other Cabinet members sat around the table.  I saw one of the Red Boxes, where important State documents were transported and kept.   A big map was on the wall behind Churchill's chair.   Small round lights hung from the ceiling.

And when I walked round the corner for the next stop on the tour, I suddenly came across a mannequin dressed as a Royal Marines guard!  During the war, one couldn't go into the Cabinet War Room without passing such a guard (photo right).

Near the Cabinet Room, I discovered Mr Churchill's wartime office (photo left).   It was a rather tiny room, with a desk and chair.  The sign above the room said QUIET PLEASE.   I wouldn't have wanted to disturb the Prime Minister while he was busy; I might have received a scowl!

Next major stop was the Transatlantic Telephone Room, from where Mr Churchill would call US President Franklin D. Roosevelt during the war.   At that time, there was no Transatlantic telephone cable, so communications between the UK and the US were made via a radio-telephone link.  

During the war, access to this link was strictly controlled, and secrecy was monitored by a civilian at either end, who would listen in on the conversation.   If either leader said anything which was forbidden to be talked about, the line would be cut--and both of them would be advised not to mention the subject!

I have to confess that the 'Churchill mannequin' on the phone line looked an awful lot like the man himself (photo right).   It was a bit startling to see!

Next was a long room holding an exhibit called Undercover: Life in Churchill's Bunker, which told the stories of many of the staff who worked in the Cabinet War Rooms.   There were recorded reminiscences by his female typists and other staff members, documents and some fascinating artefacts--including an ' Elsan chemical Loo' (left)!   

One of the more amusing observations was made by General Sir Alan Brooke, Chief of the Imperial General Staff: "It was in every way an excellent battle Headquarters, with only one fault: namely, its proximity to Winston!"

Another interesting artefact I found in this room was a long black coat in a display case (photo right).   It was worn by Mr Churchill, but not during the war: it was during the "Siege of Sidney Street" in January 1911, when Churchill was Home Secretary.   A gang of Latvian thieves attempted to break into a jewelry shop in London's East End on 16 December 1910; an adjacent shopkeeper heard the ruckus and contacted the City of London Police.   Nine unarmed officers--three sergeants and six constables--arrived on the scene, and the gang's leader opened the door.

The officers assumed the man didn't speak English, and asked him to go get someone who did.  Time passed, and the sergeants became impatient, so they entered the building--and didn't notice a man standing at the top of the staircase, who then opened fire with a pistol.   The sergeants fell wounded: one of them died instantly, while the other died later in hospital.   When the gang tried to break out of the building, one of the constables was also wounded, and died soon afterwards.   During an intense search afterwards, several of the gang members were arrested.  But two or three of them got away.

On 2 January 1911, an informant told police that the remaining gang members were holed up at 100 Sidney Street, Stepney.   Concerned that the gang would get away, and expecting heavy resistance to capture, 200 armed officers converged on the area, and the siege began.  At dawn the battle continued.  The defenders had superior weapons and a lot of ammunition in store.  

The Tower of London was called for backup, and word got to the Home Secretary, Winston Churchill.   He soon arrived in person to observe things close at hand, and to offer advice.  He also called in a detachment of the Scots Guards, to assist the police.   Six hours after the siege began--and just as an artillery piece authorized by Churchill was put in place--the building caught fire.   When the fire brigade arrived, Churchill refused them access to the building, and the police waited outside for the gang members to come out.   They never did; two of them were found dead inside afterwards.

Churchill was criticized for his role in the siege.   There is a contemporary newsreel film of the incident, showing Churchill ducking behind a building, as a bullet went through his top hat, coming within inches of killing him.   I shudder to think how history could have been changed, via this rather reckless behavior on his part!   Clementine probably wanted to wring her husband's neck for what he did....

My next stop was in the 'living quarters' area of the Cabinet War Rooms.   Here, I found the rooms used by Brendan Bracken, one of Churchill's closest friends and advisers (photo left); Detective "Tommy" Thompson, Churchill's bodyguard; and Major Desmond Morton, Churchill's personal assistant.

They were all rather tiny rooms, with basic furniture: a dresser, bed, and desk and chair.   And all of them had chamber pots beneath the beds: the only 'official' Loo was used by the Prime Minister himself!

In the same corridor, I peeked inside the Prime Minister's Dining Room (photo right), which had a small round table and four chairs, a lower table and a small serving table.   This is where the Churchills dined, along with any visiting guests.

Nearby was Clementine Churchill's bedroom (photo left), with a cheery pink duvet on the narrow bed, and a small flowered-chintz-covered chair.   An effort had definitely been made to brighten up what could be a rather drab and dreary room!

Not far away was the large Kitchen (photo right), where the meals were prepared for the occupants in the Cabinet War Rooms.   This was a long and narrow room, too, with two large 1930s electric stoves, a big white sink, and lots of interesting period kitchen utensils.   The sink even had some white dishrags hanging over it, as if to say the day's dishes were ready to be washed for the next meal.  

The scent of food cooking must have filled the nearby corridors and rooms constantly.   I'd rather smell that than tobacco smoke any day.

Next was the "Chiefs of Staff Conference Room" (photo left), where the Imperial General Staff met.  It was a long and narrow room, dominated by a green cloth-covered table, and maps covering the three walls.   On one wall with a multi-paper world map was a portrait of King George VI.  

I can well imagine all the discussions about war strategy that took place around this table.   Some of them must have been quite lively....and no doubt lasted well into the night.

Close by was a rather empty room, with a few chairs scattered about.   By now, my feet were quite sore from walking on concrete floors in the wrong shoes, so I gratefully sat down.  Over a sound system, I heard the voice of Mr Churchill himself, in one of his wartime speeches broadcast over the BBC.

It was really awesome to listen to; how many visitors to the Churchill War Rooms today have actually lived through those dangerous years between 1940 and 1945, and heard the Prime Minister speak 'live' over their wireless sets?   It must bring back a lot of memories for them.   And very close by is the actual room used for those BBC broadcasts.  The mannequin seated in the chair looked very real!

My next stop on the tour was the Secretaries' Room (photo left), where the female typists worked.   There were several manual typewriters on small desks, plus a small electric switchboard.   This room was part of a section once used to accommodate the typists, the Joint Planning Staff, and the Home Defence; the last-named were put in place when the threatened Nazi invasion of Britain appeared imminent.    There were living quarters for Churchill's Cabinet Secretary, Sir Edward Bridges, and Churchill's personal Chief of Staff, General Hastings "Pug" Ismay, and their private secretaries.

Next to this section was the Telephone Room (photo right): a rather large room at that, with tables and desks, and very real-looking mannequins in period uniforms.

I would love to know how the Imperial War Museum got hold of so many period artefacts: how many of them were found when the War Rooms were reopened in the 1980s, and how many were donated by people who lived through the war?

The next major stop on the tour was the Map Room--and the short Tunnel (photo left)  one had to walk through to get there.   It wasn't a long walk, but the Tunnel was covered on three sides by steel 'waffle' containment walls; I suppose it was to support the wall in the event of a German bomb striking the War Rooms?

On the other side of the Tunnel was the huge Map Room: it contained many desks and tables, and quite a lot of telephones in different colors (black, red, and green).

 On the walls were huge maps, covered in stickpins.   One map showed the naval convoy routes across the Atlantic: Britain's wartime lifeline.  Another was of Java, Thailand and the Pacific theatre just before the end of the war in the Far East.  Next door, in the Map Room Annexe, was a huge wall map of the Soviet Union (photo above right).   Stickpins and cotton lines showed the front lines in Russia, dating from the German invasion in June 1941 to the fall of Berlin in May 1945.

In a nearby, smaller room, I noticed what looked like charts on the wall (photo left).  They were lists of strikes by Hitler's V-1 'flying bombs' on London in 1944: where they landed, and how many casualties they caused.  

It was very sobering to read the numbers of civilian dead and wounded these bombs caused by these first intercontinental missiles.   I imagine more than a few Londoners were ready to say "Enough already!"

The last major stop on the tour was Winston Churchill's bedroom.   It contained wall-to-wall carpeting, and a small standard Civil Service bed.  

On the bedside table is a large metal canister, into which Churchill could throw his cigar stubs (photo right).   He didn't use it as a bedroom much during the war: only on three occasions.  In 1940, he preferred using the Railway Board Executive's comfortably-equipped conversion of a disused Tube station at Down Street--where he could enjoy his habit of two baths a day, a proper toilet system--and a good stock of fine wines!   The maps on the wall showed possible landing grounds in Britain for the Nazi armies in 1940.

Churchill did, however, use his room here for visits to the Map Room and for Government business, when he was forced to meet underground.   He also delivered four of his wartime speeches here.   His wife Clementine also broadcast speeches from here to Russian listeners, on behalf of the "Red Cross Aid to Russia" charity.

My final stop at the Churchill War Rooms was the Gift Shop.   Here, I bought a US-compatible DVD recording of Mr Churchill's State Funeral in 1965.   I was happy to find this; the copies at the Imperial War Museum were only compatible for UK DVD players.

I really enjoyed my visit to the Churchill War Rooms.   I confess there were times when I thought Mr Churchill himself would appear in the rooms, or walking about the corridors.  The Imperial War Museum is to be highly commended for all the work put into restoring this site.   It is definitely a place to return to again and again!

My next entry will be about my final UK site to visit: the infamous Tower of London.   It deserves its own entry by itself!