Friday, December 3, 2010

Day Three: 4 November 2010

It was another unseasonably warm November morning in London, as I awakened to begin a full touring day.   The hotel bed was very comfortable, and I slept well--considering how exhausted I was, after my first explorations of the city!   I had breakfast in a cafe not far from the hotel: one of the ingredients was 'baked beans on toast': definitely UK comfort food!   Delicious!

After breakfast, I went shopping for a UK/Europe-compatible mobile phone.   The mobile I had with me from the States didn't work in the UK or Europe (different technology, I think), so I stopped at "Carphone Warehouse" on Victoria Street, where I bought a basic mobile.   The staff was very helpful, and I'd recommend this shop to any North Americans visiting the UK!

From the shop, I ventured over to Victoria Station (again dodging the masses of commuters flowing out of the station, and into London), and inquired about train tickets to Worcester; I was going there the following day, to stay with my friends Nick and Pat Beeching.   I was able to buy a round-trip ticket in advance, and then I headed out of the station, and decided to take a tour bus, to get a feel for London's sights.   I chose "The Big Bus Company", which has these huge double-decker buses, where you could sit inside on the 'ground' floor, or go up top 'outside'.   I chose the latter view.

Before doing that, however, I noticed a young man in a pin-striped suit outside Victoria Station, who was selling poppies for the Royal British Legion, for the "Remembrance season".   He was tall, and had blue eyes--and he was wearing several military service medals, with understated British pride.   I bought a poppy pin from him, and thanked him for his service to his country.  He quietly said "Thank you".

To be honest: I wanted to shake his hand and give him a kiss.  But I also didn't want to embarrass him publicly!

Back to the sightseeing bus: it's one of these 'hop-on, hop-off' tour services, where you can get on and off at sights you want to spend more time at.   While on the bus, we wore small earphones, through which one heard descriptions (spoken in several languages) of the sights we passed.   From Victoria Station, we passed by Wellington Arch, Marble Arch, Hyde Park, and many national embassies.   In one park near Marble Arch, I noticed a very poignant memorial to "Animals In War", such as horses, carrier pigeons, and dogs.   The motto inscribed on the memorial says: "They Had No Choice".  And it's sad, but true.

One of the embassies we rode past was the massive US Embassy, on Grosvenor Square.   In the Square's park is a small memorial to the victims of 11 September 2001, and the commentary said that a piece of the World Trade Center is embedded in the memorial.   The US Embassy is scheduled to be moved into more secure quarters outside London in the next year or so.   What will become of the current building remains to be seen.

The tour bus made its way through Berkeley Square, Knightsbridge (where we passed the famous department store Harrods), and Kensington.   I saw the outside of the massive Victoria & Albert Museum, where a large queue was forming outside for a special exhibition about Victoria and Albert and their relationship.   I didn't get off there, but went instead to Kensington Gardens, which face the lovely Kensington Palace, where several minor Royals live (and which was once home to the late Diana, Princess of Wales).


As I took this photo (left), I tried to imagine the grounds in front of the palace, and beyond, covered with masses of flowers in September 1997, in the days after Diana's death.   It wrecked the grass for some time, from what I understand.

I stopped briefly on one of the park benches to call my friend the distinguished British historian Sir Martin Gilbert, on my new mobile phone.  I had a brief chat with him, and we set up a breakfast meeting after I returned from Worcester.   It was difficult to hear him over the strong wind blowing through the park!   

I then wandered around the huge park surrounding the palace, and stopped for a moment by a sizable lake, where swans, geese and ducks were swimming.   There were several grey geese wandering about, looking for handouts too (photo right).


The wind was still blowing rather fiercely, but it was warm for early November.   It felt like a typical Indian Summer day, and Londoners were out in force, walking with their children or dogs, and letting their dogs off their leads to run freely.   I chatted with several dog-walkers on the way through the park; I saw two Westies, a rather ancient Greyhound, and a Jack Russell terrier.   British people love their pet dogs!

I got back on the bus outside Kensington Gardens, and traveled to Oxford Street: one of London's massive shopping streets.   All sorts of upscale stores abound, and the sidewalks were crowded to the brim.   One of the well-known stores we passed by is Selfridges, which was founded in the 19th century by a man from Wisconsin.   We went on Baker Street (famous for its connections to Sherlock Holmes), and then onto Regent Street--and proceeded to get stuck in a massive traffic jam.   Nobody got impatient that I could see (although I'm sure there were some who weren't pleased to be trapped in traffic), and we eventually made our way along.   

We passed through Piccadilly Circus (but I couldn't get a photo of its well-known Eros statue and fountain), and into Haymarket, where several famous West End theatres are located.   From here, the road ended at Trafalgar Square,  which is dominated by a tall column, topped with a statue of Britain's famous Napoleonic Wars-era naval hero, Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson. (photo left)

The square is named for Nelson's famous naval victory against Napoleon Bonaparte, off Cape Trafalgar, in October 1815--where, tragically, Lord Nelson was mortally wounded.   The Column is flanked by four huge lions, and is a major gathering place for Londoners and visitors.   Here, one can see the National Gallery on one side, and the Church of St Martin-In-The-Fields (photo right below) on another.

We made another turn from the Square, and were now at the top of Whitehall.   To my right, I saw the Admiralty Arch (I'll post a photo of it later), and soon we were in front of Horse Guards again, seeing another horde of tourists snapping photos of the Guardsmen on the black horses.   This time, the Guards were wearing red cloaks, so I believe they were from the Household Cavalry.   Traffic was flowing through Whitehall and we passed The Cenotaph and came upon the Houses of Parliament.

Our next turn was onto Westminster Bridge, over the River Thames.   Here I got off the bus for my next stop: the spectacular "London Eye", on the South Bank of the Thames, next to the London Aquarium.   It looks like a huge Ferris wheel from a distance.   But it gives you a terrific 'birds-eye-view' of London (photo below left).
I went inside a nearby Visitors Centre to buy a ticket, and followed the crowd into a small theatre, where we were given 3-D glasses to view a short film about The Eye, and what you can see from it.   The images were incredibly real: there was a seagull that I tried to 'grab' out of mid-air, and the crowd squealed in delight!

Now it was time to 'fly': I got in the queue for a security check (bags were being checked at major tourist sites in London, due to a terror alert issued a few weeks before my arrival), and then I was assisted aboard.   You don't 'sit' in The Eye: it's actually a huge pod, where you stand upright and look out the windows.   A pod could probably hold about 20 people, but there were around a dozen or so with me.   And The Eye doesn't stop, when you're getting on and off: it's going about as fast as a tortoise can walk.  But it stops if a passenger has mobility problems.   And you
don't even realize it's moving, while all the while you're reaching to the highest point, above the Thames!


Here are several photos I took, while aboard the London Eye.   I was absolutely amazed how far I could see around the city of London.   The photo on the left is of St Paul's Cathedral, in the center, surrounded by the massive high-rises in the City (capital 'c') of London, which is the UK's version of Wall Street: its financial heart.   

I could look up and down the River Thames, and see modern bridges and tour boats.   I thought of all the great history that London has seen, and been through: the great highs, and the tragic lows.   And I also thought of all the famous, and infamous, people that have lived in London through the ages.   It was absolutely mind-boggling!

It was a little difficult to get some photos looking west, as the sun caused a bit of a glare (photo left).  But I think that, overall, I got a few good photos, including this one of the Houses of Parliament.

All too soon, our 'flight' was over, and I got off as quickly as possible.   There was an older British gentleman nearby, who had directed me to the queue earlier, and recognized me and asked if I enjoyed the trip.   I said I certainly did, and he walked with me down the ramp to ground level.  He called me 'Darling', in the way that British people used the word.   He was very funny, and very kind.

I took a few more photos along this Jubilee Walkway by the river (it was named in honor of Queen Elizabeth II's Silver Jubilee in 1977), and made my way across Westminster Bridge, taking a few photos along the way--including that of Queen Boadicea, who led an unsuccessful revolt against the Romans (right).


Leaving Westminster Bridge, I walked for a while west, along The Embankment, and found the moving "Battle of Britain" Monument to the Royal Air Force pilots who fought and died in The Battle of Britain, 70 years ago, in  the summer and fall of 1940.

The Monument (wide view, left) was created by British sculptor Paul Day, and was unveiled by the Prince of Wales and his wife, the Duchess of Cornwall,  on 18 September 2005, which was the 60th anniversary of the Battle.  It honors "The Few": the courageous pilots from the UK, the Commonwealth, those Europeans who escaped the Nazi occupation of their countries--and even a few Yanks--who fought the Luftwaffe over the skies of England from June to October 1940, and saved the UK from Nazi invasion.   As Prime Minister Winston Churchill said it so memorably:

"Never in the field of human conflict, was so much owed by so many, to so few".

The memorial also lists the names of the pilots and ground crew members who did not survive the Battle of Britain.   You can also see the shields of the various RAF units sculpted on the memorial too.

Below are photos of the Monument's sculptures.   It was the easiest way to capture the intensity on the faces of the pilots, as they dashed to their aircraft (below)....


...or relaxed before their next mission (top photo below), while the 'spotters' looked for Nazi fighters and other aircraft (bottom photo below)....


....and the fighter pilots bore down on the German planes, with a determined look upon their faces (top photo below), while those working at Fighter Command moved the 'planes' around the large plotting board, as reports came in (bottom photo below).



This is a very moving, and fitting, tribute to a group of brave men.

After leaving the Battle of Britain Monument, I got back on the bus at Westminster Bridge for one last run: to cross over to the South Bank, across Lambeth Bridge, and west on Millbank to the Houses of Parliament.   I saw a number of British Army and Royal Navy personnel entering via the Sovereign's Gate, but didn't know what was going on.   

By now, it was around 4:30 pm, and close to dusk, so I got off the tour bus on Victoria Street, and headed back to the hotel.   I ordered In-Room Dining for supper, and retired to pack up for my trip to Worcester the following day.   Another awesome day in London!