To continue on my last full day in London: a visit to the Tower of London.
The trip didn't take long to do. But there sure was an awful lot of stair-climbing and path-walking out of the station; it's some way to get some exercise!! This particular station looked fairly new: a long paved walk up and down, just to see where to get an entrance ticket to the Tower. I paid my fee, and headed towards the Tower entrance. Nearby, I noticed a lot of construction, or restoration work, going on next to the Tower's walls. Not sure exactly what was going on.
And some of the newer high-rise buildings have some freaky architecture: one of the most notable, at 30 St Mary Axe, is shaped like a pickle: hence, most Londoners call it "The Gherkin". To me, it does look something like a pickle. Or perhaps a blimp sitting on its tail, or a rocket....(photo left)
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The Tower of London is not a 'tower' in the usual sense of the word: a single structure. It's actually a large complex of buildings, with different purposes used for each. It was once a prison, of course. But it was also a royal palace, an armory, home to the Royal Mint, a public records office, and home to the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom. The oldest part of the Tower is in its center: the White Tower.
During my visit, I noticed that part of the White Tower was covered by scaffolding and plastic sheeting: it was undergoing a major restoration project, so I couldn't get full photos of the White Tower without getting the modern structures too. I decided not to take a tour inside the White Tower. Instead, I just walked round the exterior.
Not far from the White Tower is the Waterloo Barracks: the home of the British Crown Jewels--and the most secure room in the whole UK! I definitely wanted to see the Crown Jewels for myself, so I made my way inside.
First, the visitor enters a huge room on the Barracks' ground floor, where a film on the history of the Crown Jewels plays daily. Included were clips of the coronations of both King George VI and his daughter, Queen Elizabeth II, and explanations of the usages of the Royal regalia. Visitors were encouraged to keep moving by plainclothes security staff. Some were dressed as Yeoman Warders, or "Beefeaters": the guards within the Tower precincts.
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Next, I followed the crowd into the room where the Crown Jewels are kept, behind unbreakable glass. The Crown Jewels have been kept in the Waterloo Barracks (photo right) since 1994; before that, they were kept in the basement of the Barracks beginning in 1967.
One interesting innovation is in this room: two very slow-moving 'sidewalks'--like the ones you use in major airport terminals--glide on either side of the displays. They keep visitors from lingering too long in front of the Crown Jewels!
I am including a few Web-based photos of some of the Crown Jewels, for illustrative purposes only. Visitors are not allowed to take their own photos of the Crown Jewels, for security reasons.
I saw the Imperial State Crown, (photo left) which is mainly used now by The Queen at the State Opening of Parliament. It is also worn at the conclusion of the Coronation ceremony. It contains such famous stones as 'The Black Prince's Ruby' (not a real ruby, but either a spinel or balas); the 'Stuart Sapphire'; the 'Cullinan II' or 'Second Star of Africa' diamond; four earrings that once belonged to Queen Elizabeth I; and 'St Edward's Sapphire', originally set in a ring that belonged to St Edward the Confessor. Other crowns I saw included St Edward's Crown; this is only used at the moment of Coronation. There was also a crown made for King George IV; Queen Victoria's Crown; the Crown of George, Prince of Wales; the Crown of Frederick, Prince of Wales; the Queen Consort Crowns of Queens Mary (wife of George V), Adelaide (wife of King William IV), Mary of Modena (wife of King James II), Queen Alexandra (wife of King Edward VII), and the Crown of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother (wife of King George VI).
Besides the various crowns on display, I also saw several gorgeous rings, including 'The Sovereign's Ring', made for William IV's Coronation, made of rubies forming the Cross of St George on a blue sapphire; the 'Queen Consort's Ring', made for Queen Adelaide, with a huge ruby surrounded by diamonds; and 'Queen Victoria's Ring': a smaller version of William IV's coronation ring. This particular ring caused a bit of pain for Queen Victoria at her Coronation: it was made too small for her finger, and was forced on by the Archbishop of Canterbury!
Queen Victoria inherited all three of these rings, and bequeathed them to the Crown on her death. The Sovereign's Ring has been used in every Coronation since 1902, and the Queen Consort's Ring has also been worn by Queen Consorts since that date.
There is also 'Queen Mary's Orb', made for the joint Coronation of William III and Mary II in 1689; Mary was the daughter of the exiled King James II. The Sceptres included 'The Sovereign's Sceptre With Cross', 'The Sovereign's Sceptre With Dove', 'The Queen Consort's Sceptre With Cross', 'The Queen Consort's Ivory Rod With Dove', and 'Queen Mary's Sceptre With Dove'.
The outer robes are based on ancient Imperial vestments, and are woven from silk thread wound round with gold. Over the monarch's linen shift is worn the Supertunica, a long coat made of cloth of gold, that was made for George V's Coronation in 1911.
Next comes the Stole, which is worn round the neck; the one in the display was made in 1953, and it bears both the emblems of the British Isles and symbolic plants of the Commonwealth.
Lastly, there's the Imperial Mantle, made in 1821 for King George IV's Coronation, and used by Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 for her Coronation. It is covered with emblems of the-then newly created United Kingdom, along with imperial eagles. All that stuff must weigh a ton when worn!
Lastly, there was a room filled with items used in the Coronation ceremony, the Coronation Feasts, and for Royal Christenings. For the Coronation ceremony, there were several huge Altar Dishes, Communion Patens and Chalices: they are displayed on the High Altar at Westminster Abbey during the Coronation. The biggest one of the lot was 'The Last Supper Altar Dish", made in 1664, showing a representation of The Last Supper in the center, and it weighs nearly 29 lbs.!
On one side is a carving of a Unicorn; the other has a Lion wearing a crown. It weighs around 548 lbs.; how does one get this thing moved from place to place? I bet more than a few Coronation Banquet guests were tottering about, after indulging in wine cooled in here!!
King George IV was the last British Sovereign to hold a Coronation Banquet. Probably a good thing: the man ran up an awful lot of debts during his life--not to mention he had an overly-hearty appetite!
One can read all one wants about the Crown Jewels, and see photos of them in books. But nothing beats seeing them in person, in all their sparkling, glowing splendor!! I could not help but think of Prince William and Kate Middleton. When William becomes King William V, he will wear the Imperial State Crown. And when Kate becomes "Queen Kate", she'll wear the Queen Consort's Crown! Awesome....!!!
The Mace precedes the arrival and departure of the Speaker of the House of Commons, and neither House can lawfully meet without the Mace being present. I've seen it numerous times during 'Prime Minister's Questions' in the Commons.
Nothing beats seeing the British Crown Jewels in person. One can see them in dozens of photo books, or travel guides. But those mere photos pale in comparison to seeing the 'real thing'!
No photography was allowed in the church, and visitors were strongly encouraged to remain quiet. I thought that was good: St Peter-ad-Vincula is a place for quiet reflection and prayer, to remember those who are buried in the crypt below. It is a very intimate setting for Anglican services too. What sad history has been witnessed by this little church....
In place of the scaffold stands a modern Plexiglass sculpture (photo left) , shaped like an open flower: in the center sits what looks like a pillow (perhaps one where a severed head landed?). Engraved round the 'flower' were the names and execution dates of those who died here: I saw names such as Anne Boleyn, Katherine Howard, and Sir Thomas More. An interesting sculpture, I thought: not bad for a modern work of art.
Across Tower Green were stucco-and-wood-fronted buildings. I believe this was the site of the 'Queen's Quarters', when the Tower was used as a Royal residence. They are now the homes of Tower staff (photo right).
I think the Governor of the Tower lives here; I saw a bearskin hat-wearing Guard on duty outside his door. The Governor is usually a retired high-ranking military member; one past Governor was Field Marshal Alexander, also known as Earl Alexander of Tunis, from the Second World War). I wonder what these quarters look like inside?
One of the really big ravens had ruffled feathers (photo left), and looked a bit grumpy to boot. If you looked close enough (or dared to!), you could see where the wings were clipped. There is an old legend that says if the ravens leave the Tower, the kingdom will fall. So, to make sure that doesn't happen, all the ravens' wings are clipped.
It was really cool seeing these huge birds in person. Seeing them made me want to quote the famous line from Edgar Allan Poe's poem The Raven: 'Quoth the Raven: NEVERMORE!"
By now, my poor feet were starting to throb, even though I had sat down for a few minutes in St Peter-ad-Vincula. My final stop within the Tower precincts was the 'Bloody Tower'.
I could have taken the spiral staircase up into the tower itself, but decided instead to get a look at the workings of the tower's Portcullis: a nasty-looking spiked gate held in place by heavy rope, round a wooden spool. A crank was used to lower the Portcullis in case of threats of attack. Across from that was a large furnished room with a fireplace (photo above right). This room was used by Sir Walter Raleigh, when he was a prisoner in the Tower.
Raleigh's family was allowed to join him here, oddly enough. But in the end, Sir Walter still lost his head on Tower Green.
It's really incredible, visiting a site that has so much tragic history. The phrase 'to the Tower!' sparked a lot of fear, for many centuries. Even as a museum, the Tower is a spooky place. And it has more than its share of wandering ghosts--so I am told!
Upstream from Tower Bridge, moored on the south side of the River Thames is HMS Belfast, (photo left) a Second World War light cruiser that's been turned into a museum operated by the Imperial War Museum. She was built in 1939, and participated in the Arctic supply convoys to the Soviet Union and in Operation Overlord on D-Day, 6 June 1944. She also saw action during the Korean War.
HMS Belfast was saved from the scrap heap in 1971, and was restored and opened to the public in July 1971. In 1978, she became a branch of the Imperial War Museum.
HMS Belfast was saved from the scrap heap in 1971, and was restored and opened to the public in July 1971. In 1978, she became a branch of the Imperial War Museum.
While walking along Tower Wharf and taking photos, I noticed how cold it was: the wind was whipping off the gray Thames, under equally gray skies. After taking a few more photos of the exterior Tower walls, I walked back to the Visitor Center and stopped at a fish-and-chips restaurant for lunch, and to change a little money.
After lunch, I stopped at the Gift Shop to buy some last-minute presents. I bought a "Winston Bulldog" stuffed toy, drink coasters with portraits of Henry VIII's Six Wives--and a collection of scented bar soap, in boxes showing portraits of both King Henry (photo left) and all his wives. I bought the last-named gift for my sister Joanne at home. And all of these gifts were placed in a Tower of London canvas bag!
I paid for my gifts and left the Shop. Of course, as I was buying more stuff, I didn't even take into consideration how I was going to pack it all!
I paid for my gifts and left the Shop. Of course, as I was buying more stuff, I didn't even take into consideration how I was going to pack it all!
Before leaving the Tower of London for the last time, I took a couple more photos, including one of "The Gherkin", standing above the more historic buildings in London (photo below right).
I also made one more call on my UK mobile phone to my friend Sir Martin Gilbert , in hopes of chatting with him before I left for the US. I only got his voice-mail, so I left a message, and then retraced my steps back to the Tower Hill Tube station.
I also made one more call on my UK mobile phone to my friend Sir Martin Gilbert , in hopes of chatting with him before I left for the US. I only got his voice-mail, so I left a message, and then retraced my steps back to the Tower Hill Tube station.
As a footnote to that call, Sir Martin and I weren't able to make telephone connections before I left London. But we did make email connection after my return to the States.
Before too long, an eastbound train showed up, and I got on for the short ride back to Westminster. I got off the Tube at Westminster Bridge station, and discovered I was just across from Big Ben, and the Houses of Parliament. I decided to go back down Whitehall, and say 'farewell' to the horses at Horse Guards, and to The Cenotaph. I did take one last look at the wreaths laid on Remembrance Sunday round The Cenotaph. But I never made it to Horse Guards.
Across Whitehall, I noticed a small crowd forming near the fence at Downing Street, so I crossed over to see what was going on. And I noticed a large group of well-dressed people waiting to be admitted through the gate at Downing Street. I asked a woman in line what was up, and she told me that a group of school headmasters were invited to meet with Prime Minister David Cameron at No. 10 Downing Street, to discuss Education in difficult economic times. She told me her husband was one of those being admitted.
The marchers slowed down as they got close to Downing Street, and they continued banging their drums, and they also started chanting. They began to spill over onto the sidewalks--and I then figured it was time to get out of the way, before I got caught up in the demonstration! While it was a peaceful protest, one never knew if it might get out of hand--so I made my way along the sidewalk to King Charles Street, and down the Clive Steps--into the peace of St James Park.
The noise from the Fire Brigades' demonstration faded as I walked through the Park, and headed for my hotel; I did stop briefly for a few last photos of the bird life in the Park--including a scene that looked like Alfred Hitchcock's film The Birds: when a visitor threw bread onto the grass near the water, a huge flock of seagulls and ducks swarmed over the stuff, squawking and flapping like mad (photo left). It was fun to watch.
When I returned to the hotel, I stopped long enough to drop my stuff off and clean up a bit. For supper, I thought about going to an 'authentic' British pub: the 'Prince Albert', on the corner of Buckingham Gate and Victoria Street, just a few steps from my hotel. It's a very historic pub, and one frequented by MPs and other politicians, since it's a couple of blocks from the Houses of Parliament and Whitehall.
When I did go in, the bar area was crowded with people, but I went upstairs to the main Dining Room--and discovered it didn't open until 5 pm! Flushed with embarrassment, I scampered downstairs and out the door--and decided instead to order supper from Pret A Manger across the road. It was just as well: Pret's food was awesome. And it was a bargain for the money!
I saved the most onerous task of the night for last: PACKING UP. It took three attempts to get most of my stuff inside the suitcase! I ended up stuffing my backpack with small gifts, and carrying my Tower of London bag with my gifts from there. So I definitely had my hands full, getting ready to leave for the USA the next day.
I went to bed with a mind full of all the things I did, the places I saw, and the people I met, during my stay in the UK and in Belgium. I sure didn't want to leave....
I went to bed with a mind full of all the things I did, the places I saw, and the people I met, during my stay in the UK and in Belgium. I sure didn't want to leave....
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